A delightful, easy-going coastal walk visiting the Scoraig peninsula, home to an alternative community. Although this is an out-and-back route, the excellent views all along the way make it thoroughly enjoyable.
Summary
Excellent path throughout; when the Loch is too rough for boats, it is Scoraig's only link with the outside world.
Terrain
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1. Park at the end of the minor road to Badrallach. There is space for a good number of cars; take care not to block the turning area by the sign at the very end. The path begins by heading uphill past a sign warning there is no vehicular access. It soon levels off and becomes slightly rougher surfaced, with views across Little Loch Broom towards the distinctive peak of Sail Mhor.
2. After a couple of kilometres the path rounds a little corner and traverses across a steeper, more dramatic section of coastline. It undulates a little, with a pitched-stone surface in places, but always keeps well above the level of the water. At Creag a Chadha there are cliffs above the path and a steep drop below; this section is fenced and the path passes through a small gate at one point. There are also the first views of Scoraig, its scattered houses spread across the greener and wooded area its residents are working. Further on, the steeper section is passed and the slopes ease once more.
3. A large gate in a deer fence marks the beginning of Scoraig. The crofting community here was abandoned in the 1950s but soon after the first new residents began arriving. Despite having no road link and no services, the alternative community here thrived and today there are children in Scoraig whose parents were born there. Home to around 70 people, the varied houses are spread across a couple of miles of ground from here to the slipway and beyond. Power is provided primarily by wind turbines (some Scoraig residents being pioneers of wind power), with also solar panels on some of the houses. A variety of vegetables are grown and boats across Loch Broom provide an easier link with the rest of the mainland.
4. After passing the first few houses there is a long gap, with wide areas planted with trees under a community forest scheme; most of the houses being heated by log fires. Further on a small, improbably situated lighthouse is reached. This was originally on the point of the headline, but when it was replaced with a new automatic electric light, the old lighthouse was moved here. Inside the lighthouse are a series of information boards giving some details about life in Scoraig. Shortly after the lighthouse, the path - now a track - passes the school. Children are taught here up to the age of 14, after which they have to go away during the week to Ullapool. The track then turns down towards the sea.
5. If you have time, continue along the track to the concrete jetty. Supplies that residents cannot make themselves are brought in here by boat from Baluarach across Little Loch Broom - tide and weather permitting. You can make a loop around the buildings by the jetty before beginning the return walk.
6. The walk back to Badrallach may be tiring for some, but the views in this direction are completely different. Beinn Ghoblach looks very fine over to the left of the first section of the path, and later on the eye is drawn up towards the head of the loch, backed by jagged outliers of An Teallach.
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