Suilven may be only 731 metres high, but its unique outline, challenging remoteness and superlative views make it one of the finest mountains in Britain.
Summary
Paths throughout by the route described; one section is very boggy, and the climb to the ridge is very steep. Very simple scrambling on the ridge.
Terrain
NC107219
Grid ref
19.5km/12 miles
Distance
Grade
End of public road from Lochinver towards Glencanisp Lodge.
Start
Maps
GPS Waypoints
View in 3D
Users'
rating
No trip reports have been submitted for this walk. Why not be the first?
Add your own walk report
Users'
reports
Public transport
Pronunciation
and meaning
1. Suilven's remarkable outline, though distant, dominates the scene at Lochinver, but from here only it's great dome-shaped western summit of Caisteal Liath is visible. From the east Suilven appears as a Matterhorn-like spire, whereas only to the north and south is the true nature of this remarkable ridge revealed. To climb it, park at the end of the minor public road from Lochinver towards Glencanisp Lodge. The public road ends where a track goes off to the south to cross the outflow of Loch Druim Suardalain. There is limited space and those not arriving early may have to walk up from Lochinver itself. Begin the walk by continuing along the now-private tarmac road road the northern shore of the loch to Glencanisp Lodge. This luxurious former shooting lodge is now owned by the local crofters following the estate buyout through the Assynt Trust.
2. Pass behind Glencanisp Lodge, taking the excellent stalkers path branching off to the right a few hundred metres beyond it beside a shed. This path keeps to the left of a fence at first, and crosses a rugged, rocky and undulating landscape for the next few kilometres but it is quite clear to follow; the great peak of Caisteal Liath luring you on into the wilds. After almost three kilometres a path junction is reached. A short detour to the left here takes you to Suileag Bothy, which is maintained by the MBA. If you visit the bothy, please help the maintenance volunteers by carrying out any rubbish you find there. Return to the path junction to continue the stalkers path towards Suilven; it soon slopes down beside the Abhainn na Clach Airigh. Keep on the stalkers' path which now remains closer to the stream (which flows through Loch Buidhe) before crossing it at a footbridge after a couple of kilometres. The path now climbs a little away from the stream before approaching it once more; look out for a cairn marking a rough path leading off to the right. This junction is around 600 metres after crossing the footbridge, and 250 metres before it reaches and crosses the stream again.
3. Turn right onto this rough path, which aims directly for the gully leading to the 'nick' on Suilven's ridge between the western dome and
the rest of the ridge. The path up the moor towards the base of the mountain is very boggy and eroded in places, without the benefit of the grading of
the constructed-stalkers path. There is a first fairly steep pull to a shoulder, after which the route passes between Loch a'Choire Dhuibh and Loch na
Barrack, before reaching the foot of the Bealach Mor gully proper. The ascent of the gully might look intimidating, but it is merely a very steep walk
requiring care and effort. The sudden moment of arrival at the ridge at the top of the gully is magical, with a wonderful aerial view opening up to the
south towards Stac Pollaidh at that very instant – well captured by Norman MacCaig in his poem 'Climbing Suilven', when
he writes
And suddenly
My shadow jumps huge miles away from me.
4. At the ridge, turn right. The path crosses the remains of a quite amazing drystone dyke (or wall) – who could have thought of building a wall over such a mountain ridge? Beyond the wall the path begins ascending towards the summit, winding to and fro to find a (very) easy scrambly route up to the dome-like summit of Caisteal Liath. This is the true summit of Suilven, at 731 metres; the view in all directions is staggering; the photo shows the view looking northeast towards Quinag.
5. The most remarkable part of the whole landscape is the view along the ridge of Suilven towards Meall Mheadhonach, the spire-like peak at the centre of the ridge. This can be ascended along the exposed ridge by those keen on scrambling; beyond Meall Mheadhonach the ridge becomes much more difficult still and is best left to experienced climbers. Afterwards, the shortest and most usual return route back to Lochinver is the same way, back down the gully.
6. There is an excellent alternative route however, a longer walk that leads you down to Inverkirkaig about three kilometres south of Lochinver along the road. This route isn't included in the times or distances given for the walk. To descend this way, still return to the Bealach Mor where you joined the ridge, but head carefully down the gully on the south side rather than return down that on the north. The way is very steep but not dissimilar to your approach route. Once below the gully a boggy path leads to the beautiful waters of the Fionn Loch where it joins a stalkers path; go right on this path that leads right round the west end of the loch. Continue on the path, descending past the magnificent Falls of Kirkaig before continuing well above the river for several miles to reach the Kirkaig woods, arriving on the road near the bookshop. Lochinver is 3km along the road to the right. This is a long route; make sure you have the time and energy.
Have you found an error or is any information wrong or missing?
Please let us know by using the error report form.
Route profile
