Aonach Eagach
GLENCOE AND KINLOCHLEVEN
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1. Park at the small parking area on the north side of the A82 about three hundred metres west of the solitary house at Allt-na-reigh. This car park is often full, in which case there is a larger car park a short distance further west along the road. The view of the Aonach Eagach is rather foreshortened from here; in the photograph opposite it is shown from Loch Achtriochtan further down the glen. The clear path has a sign at the start warning you as to the dangers of the traverse, which is likely to lead to further increase either your anxiety or excitement, depending on your attitude to exposure. No such difficulties at first, however, as the path climbs up the lower slopes of Am Bodach, gradually heading round further east as it climbs to come alongside the Allt Ruigh. (An alternative route, with simple scrambling, continues more directly up the steep spur to Am Bodach).
2. The path mostly ascends close to the stream, making a wide zig-zag to the left at one point to avoid a rocky gorge, before emerging on the bealach between Sron Garbh and Am Bodach. Turn left along the ridge, which climbs steeply to reach the Munro 'Top' of Am Bodach. This is an excellent viewpoint, with the first hint of the drama to come in the view of a rock pinnacle known as 'The Chancellor' below (luckily our route does not visit this pinnacle!).
Photo ©Bob K Laker, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
3. The first real scrambling comes on the descent from Am Bodach. A short distance from the summit there is an awkward, sloping, slabby cliff to descend; it is steep but not excessively so, but there is a large drop from the ridge below it, and it can become very slippery in the wet. Once safely down this descent, the ridge is narrow with a few short scrambly sections but fairly straightforward with a good path as it continues onto Meall Dearg. This is the first Munro of the day, at 953 metres, and is famous as being the final Munro climbed by the Reverend A.E. Robertson, who became the first man to complete the Munros here in 1901. He kissed first the cairn, and then his wife.
4. Meall Dearg is a good viewpoint for the other Glencoe peaks, but all walkers eyes will be drawn to the ridge ahead – a frightening prospect. The ridge has several steep rocky chimneys and other short scrambling sections which must be climbed and descended, and is very narrow in places (though it is not as consistently narrow as reputation would have it). There are many short scrambles necessary all along this ridge; the trickiest section is known as the 'Crazy Pinnacles' and is well along the ridge. There is also a tricky move right at the end - a very steep descent onto a narrow section of ridge, which must be climbed down facing the rock. The difficulties then end and the Munro 'Top' of Stob Coire Leith is reached. Note that there are no safe descents from the Aonach Eagach once embarked on this section of ridge; there have been many accidents to scramblers attempting to leave the ridge before the end of the scrambling. The only possible escape route is descend northwards from Meall Dearg (incidentally this route gives an easy ascent to Meall Dearg for baggers who do not wish to traverse the ridge).
Photo ©Eirian Evans, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
5. From Stob Coire Leith the ridge continues easily with a broad path to the second Munro, Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, the highest on the ridge at 967 metres; it has a superb view of the lower reaches of Glen Coe. Now you just need to make the descent from the ridge. Do not attempt to descend the path above the Clachaig Gully, which is extremely eroded and dangerous along the edge of the gully, and the scene of several fatalities. It is often recommended to descend instead southwards from the summit to Loch Achtriochtan; however this is a very steep descent with much scree and is unpleasant. The best route is to continue down the broad ridge to the west towards the Pap of Glencoe.
Photo ©Eirian Evans, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
6. Continue down the wide ridge which is littered with rocks and scree. There is a faint path; follow this if you can as it slants off the ridge to the left as you near the bealach. It leads down to a steep, boggy path that descends to a track leading down to the Glencoe – Clachaig road about a kilometre west of Glencoe village. If you haven't arranged transport, you have a long walk back up the glen to return to your parked car – not included in the times or distances given.
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Route profile
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Kinlochleven and Glencoe Hotels and Inns
Kinlochleven and Glencoe B&B (Bed and Breakfasts)
Self catering cottages in Kinlochleven and Glencoe
Fort William, Lochaber and Glencoe hostels
