Creag Meagaidh circuit
FORT WILLIAM, GLEN NEVIS AND SPEAN BRIDGE
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1. There is a good-sized car park at Aberarder on the north side of the A86, opposite Loch Laggan. An excellent signed footpath leads past the buildings and up into the glen. This whole area has been purchased as a National Nature Reserve by Scottish Natural Heritage, and the regeneration of the forest is impressive. Once beyond the furthest fence head through young birch woodland, looking out for an old iron post. From this post strike off to the right uphill through the trees, aiming for the hillock of Na Cnapanan; there is a very faint path.
2. From Na Cnapanan, head northwest up a steeper slope before beginning the gradual grind up the broader hillside beyond. The going is straightforward and there are excellent views across to the great crags of Creag Meagaidh across Coire Ardair to relieve the monotony of the featureless slope. The angle eases eventually eases into a wide plateau. The first cairn reached is not the true highest point; continue to where a larger cairn marks the summit of Carn Liath. This is the first Munro of the day at a height of 1006 metres.
Photo ©Bill Copland, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
3. Head west down the open slopes towards the insignificant swelling of Meall an t-Snaim. From here the slopes begin to narrow to form a ridge, and old iron rusty fence posts point the way towards the peculiar trench-like bealach of Uinneas Min Choire. There is a short, steep little ascent from here to reach Sron Coire a'Chriochairein. The ridge continuing from here now much improved with steep drops to the left and stunning views. Curve round the edge of the corrie and then continue west along the flat summit ridge to reach the summit cairn of Stob Poite a'Choire Ardair beyond. This is the second Munro at 1053 metres.
Winter photo ©Paul Birrell, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
4. Descend south southwest to reach 'The Window', the bealach between the ridge just traversed and Creag Meagaidh itself. 'The Window' is set well back from Coire Ardair and there is no view down to the lochan. Ascend up the steep, slightly loose slope on the far side; there is a winding path which helps to ease the gradient, and it isn't as steep as it looked when you were coming down the slope opposite.
Photo ©Bill Copland, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
5. The slope soon eases into the vast plateau of Creag Meagaidh. Cross this to a giant, very old looking cairn in the centre of the tablelands to the southwest – this is Mad Meg's cairn. This isn't the summit of the mountain though; for this, continue westwards where the plateau soon narrows to form a ridge. A short ascent along this ridge brings the much smaller cairn of Creag Meagaidh into view. This is the highest mountain in the area at 1130 metres, and the views are very extensive on a clear day. From here, return across the plateau and down to 'The Window'.
6. Descend the steep slopes leading east from the Window; as a stream forms keep to its left. The scenery becomes ever more impressive as height is lost until Lochan Coire Ardair is reached. This tiny sheet of water is utterly overpowered by the great bulk of Creag Meagaidh's cliffs high above. This is regarded as one of the best ice-climbing arenas in Scotland.
7. From the lochan there is a clear path down the north bank of the Allt Coire Ardair. The path is a little boggy at first but improves further down where it keeps further from the river. The lower part of the glen is clothed with a wonderful remnant of the ancient forest, and further still are the regenerating areas helped by the National Nature Reserve. Continue down the path right back to the start.
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