Berwickshire Coast Path 2: Dowlaw to St Abbs

Summary

A gentle start through farmland soon leads on to the most dramatic section of the Berwickshire Coastal Path, leading along the rim of some fabulous cliffs high above the sea. There is a fair amount of up and downhill as the route continues to the National Nature Reserve at St Abb's Head, famed for its seabirds, and on to the fishing village itself.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Farmland, then grassy coastal path. There are some steep ascents and descents and unprotected cliff edges.

Getting there

Start

Car park at Dowlaw.

Public Transport

No bus to the start, which is 3km off the A1107 road; fitter walkers using public transport may opt to combine this with the first stage.

Start Grid Ref

NT855701

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 11km / 6.75 miles
Time: 3 - 4 hours
Ascent: 330m (Profile)

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Explorer 346 - Berwick

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Walk Description

User reports (1)

Stage 1

There is a car park just short of Dowlaw which is 3km along a signed minor tarred lane off the A1107. Before beginning the walk, decide whether to include the detour to see the scant but dramatically located remains of Fast Castle. If you wish to see the castle, turn left from the car park, following a grassy track alongside the plantation and passing through a gate. When a second gate and stile are reached, cross the stile to head up to another gate in a drystone wall just uphill. Once through this fork right along a clear path, almost parallel to the wall at first before beginning to descend. Soon there is a view of what remains of Fast Castle far below, set above the sea; with care you can follow the path all the way down to the ruins; once you've seen enough, retrace your steps back to Dowlaw to begin the walk proper. Go through the kissing gate into the woods on the other side of the track, then follow the path left through the trees. When it emerges on a track, turn right then immediately left, through a kissing gate into a field. Now aim for the footpath sign in the wall half left; go through the gap in the wall and turn right.

Stage 2

Pass through this and continue with the stone wall and telegraph poles on your right. This is an old right of way but now the grassy track is scarcely visible; continue ahead to pass through another gate in the dip, then keep ahead by the old gnarled bushes to reach a double metal gate. Go through this, crossing the bridge over the Dowlaw burn, and up the signed path beyond. This keeps between fields, bearing left and eventually reaching a muddy track. Turn right along this briefly then left at the footpath signpost to follow a path around the edge of a field, keeping right then left then right again along the field boundary. Go through a gate then left at another footpath signpost to head towards the coastline, keeping to the right of a tumbledown wall. Soon the clifftops are reached, high above the sea. Stay on the landward side of the fence and continue easily high above the sea, with grand views looking back along the coastline.

Stage 3

Soon the promontory of St Abb's Head comes into view in the distance. Continue on the landward side of the clifftop fence, passing through a kissing gate and dipping slightly to cross a footbridge. After another kissing gate continue by the fence, descending steeply for a time, to reach a signpost and gate giving access to a grassy stretch of path that heads out towards the sea before crossing a footbridge over the burn at Heathery Carr. The route then bears right slightly and climbs steeply up the far side of the ravine. Go through a gap in the stone wall to reach another signpost; from here the route continues on the left side of a fence, with magnificent views looking back along the coastline.

Stage 4

Continue by the fence which is just back from the higher cliff edge, with Coldingham Loch seen to the right. Eventually a marker post indicates where to cross to the other side of the fence at a kissing gate. Cross a footbridge and stile, then look out for a stile below on the next section, with a short steep descent to reach it. Once over this, continue uphill once more with the fence on your right. Go through another kissing gate and stay on the seaward side of the fence - with stunning views of St Abbs' Head - until the route ahead is blocked by a fence. Go right over a stile here then left at another stile over a drystone wall. The route now continues downhill to meet the private road near Mire Loch.

Stage 5

Turn left along the road, which soon swings sharply right and climbs to reveal a final grand look back along the coastline just traversed. The road then cuts across the headland and leads to the cottages above St Abbs' Head lighthouse. Just before reaching these climb the steps on the right to pass above the cottages. A small white hut gives information about the lighthouse, which is revealed as you pass the cottages to rejoin the coastline. Only 9 metres high, the lighthouse is perched 68 metres above the sea, making full use of the cliffs. Continue along the path into the next dip, then pass to the right of Kirk Hill. The path then slopes round the base of the hill to rejoin the coastline near to sea level.

Stage 6

Pass through a gate to pass the back of a bay, with some grand rocky stacks and crags to bring drama. The path then climbs once more, up steps, to pass above a final high section of cliffs. A bench and picnic table gives a grand view of a vertical section of cliff topped by pinnacles that look like the remains of a castle. The path soon leaves the coastline, following a high stone wall. When it emerges on the road cross to join a path on the far side, then turn left down this.

Stage 7

The path rejoins the road for the final descent into St Abbs village. Look out for a viewpoint on the left overlooking the harbour; the small bronze sculpted figures here represent the wives and children of three men from the village lost at sea in the great storm of 1881. From here wooden steps lead on down to the harbour in St Abbs, where there is also a cafe.

Next stage: St Abbs to Eyemouth

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