Ring of St Mary's Loch

Summary

Set in a remote location half way along the Selkirk to Moffat road, St Mary's Loch ranks amongst the most attractive lochs in the Borders. Recently opened paths enable walkers to make a complete circuit of the loch with only short sections on the road - a fine walk. The route as described here includes a couple of detours to visit an old kirkyard and a ruined tower house - these could be omitted if required to reduce the length of the walk by 2.5km or so.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

4.25/5

Rating

Terrain

Waymarked grassy paths, tracks and short stretches of road verge.

Public Transport

None to start.

Start

James Hogg monument car park, south end of St Mary's Loch. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 14.75km / 9.25 miles
Time: 4 - 5.5 hours
Ascent: 172m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NT237204

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (2)

Stage 1

The walk begins from the car park below the James Hogg memorial at the southern end of the loch; there is further parking on the opposite side of the road. James Hogg - also known as the Ettrick Shepherd - became famed as a writer in the 19th century with a series of poems, novels and essays, written in spite of his poor upbringing and continued life as a shepherd. Later in the 20th century his novel The Private Memoirs and Confessions of a Justified Sinner was re-evaluated by critics and is now regarded as a classic. Begin the walk by crossing the road and heading down the signed track opposite.

Stage 2

Stay on the track as it leads over a bridge passing the former Tibbie Shiels Inn which closed many years ago and ignoring the Southern Upland Way waymarker. Tibbie Shields was the landlady at a time when Hogg met with Sir Walter Scott at the Inn. Pass a Southern Upland Way information board and then turn left through a gate and continue ahead to reach the loch and turn right to pass the clubhouse of the St Mary's Loch Sailing club. Pass the jetty and a bench to cross a stile signed as part of the Southern Upland Way. The Way is followed throughout the walk along this side of the loch; at first following the grassy bank above the loch shores.

Stage 3

Soon the path leads into March Wood, which is a remnant of the great Ettrick Forest which once covered the area. Cross a bridge over a small burn and pass through another gate. There are good views across the loch to the fine Scots Baronial Rodono House on the opposite side. Further on Matt Baker's modern sculpture 'Shinglehook' is reached - the two oak anchors were originally attached to four floating bronze casts.

Stage 4

Continue on the shingly path, crossing a stile to gain a grassy section. At the end of this cross a stile to pass through woodland, followed by another gate and then a footbridge. At a further stile the route crosses further pastures, and after the next stile joins a track. This is followed to reach a parking area at the eastern end of the loch. Follow the track across the bridge over the outflow. At this point a choice can be made whether to include the detour to Dryhope Tower by turning right - if you wish to omit this, skip the next paragraph below and instead turn left.

Stage 5

For the tower, turn right down to a stile. Continue along the field edge beside the river until reaching a gate in a wall. Do not pass through, instead turning left along the nearside of the wall. Near the top of the field go through the gate on the right and cross the footbridge beyond, then cross a stile onto the road. Go straight across the road, over a stile and up the field edge, passing through a gate and continuing straight ahead. Near a fence, cross a small bridge over a ditch and continue up the other side of the ditch beside the wall. A stile at the top gives access to a track, where the Southern Upland Way goes off to the right. Turn left here, through a gate to head into a field, then head down across a footbridge to visit the Dryhope Tower. This impressive structure is a fine example of a fortified tower house from the 1500s; inside a metal stair gives access to the roof to take in the views. After visiting the tower, retrace your steps all the way back to the bridge at the outflow of St Mary's Loch.

Stage 6

Follow the track - signed as Private but also with a Ring o' the Loch waymarker - to a waterworks. Go ahead through the gate at the far end to follow the river to the loch itself. The route now crosses a stile and briefly follows the loch shores. After a second stile turn right between a wall and a fence to reach the road. Go left at the road, crossing the bridge, and then crossing a stile into the field opposite. Bear half left in the field, crossing a low footbridge, and then heading for a pedestrian gate in the wall just above the road. Go straight ahead along a track parallel to the road - this was an old drove route, and gives excellent views over the loch.

Stage 7

This area has been planted with scattered native trees by the Borders Forest Trust. Go through a gateway; when the track forks, you can take the right branch to short cut uphill to visit St Mary's Kirkyard - the second detour from the walk around the loch. Pass a bench and continue steeply up towards the kirkyard, crossing a wooden walkway over a boggy area once alongside it. The kirkyard is a magical spot; the church (now gone) was built in the 1200s and it is said that William Wallace was proclaimed Guardian of Scotland here. An annual service held here remembers the Covenanters of the 17th century who held their acts of worship in remote outdoor places.

Stage 8

Head back down the hill, passing the bench, to return to the Ring o' the Loch route on the old drovers' road, turning right onto this grassy track keeping above the main road. Eventually the track becomes a path and slopes down through a gate to reach the road. Go straight across here onto a path, crossing a footbridge and reaching the loch shores. Follow the path as it turns right, passing below the houses and then rejoining the road. Turn left along the road verge; there is a war memorial at the junction with the road to Megget. Keep left along the verge of the road, crossing the bridge over the Megget Water. Further on a marker post indicates where you can turn sharply left and descend steeply to the loch shores.

Stage 9

Turn right to follow a path alongside the loch shores (this can be flooded at times of high water, in which case you'd need to keep to the road). As the path nears a fishing club hut turn right to rejoin the road. Stay on the verge until beyond the gardens of Rodono House, then take another signed path on the left that follows the loch shore until a wall at the end of the trees. The path goes right alongside the wall, and then left to stay between the raised road and the wall enclosing the pastures. Further on the road is joined again, until a final section of lochside path leads back to the lane leading to Tibbie Shiel's Inn. Turn right along this to return to the start. Just beyond the car park is the seasonal Glen Cafe popular with cyclists, walkers and bikers.

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