Soldier's Rock and Kintra circuit

Summary

This rugged walk explores the moorland and deserted villages west of Kintra en route to a dramatic corner of the coastline with a fine sea-stack. The return walk closer to the coast is hard going - very boggy and overgrown with woody willow; if in doubt, it is easier to return the same way.

Grade

Bog Factor

3.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Track initially, then soggy, pathless moorland. Very rough, boggy going on return. Livestock on route, dogs are discouraged and should be kept under tight control.

Getting there

Start

Parking just beyond Kintra.

Public Transport

None.

Start Grid Ref

NR320483

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 7.7km / 4.75 miles
Time: 3 - 3.5 hours
Ascent: 200m (Profile)

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Explorer 352 - Islay South

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Walk Description

User reports (5)

Stage 1

On reaching Kintra do not park in the farmyard; instead there is a small parking area as signed just through the gate on the right. To begin the walk, turn left at the track junction to head west at first, with grand views to the right across the vast 8km sweep of the Big Strand beach, runs the length of Laggan Bay.

Stage 2

The track soon swings inland, through a cattle feeding area. At a junction keep ahead - ignoring the larger track off left, and the lesser one heading right across the burn. Soon this track too fords the burn. Continue along the track for another 1km to reach the ruined house at Frachdale. Turn right here, following a sometimes muddy track as it climbs, revealing more views along the length of Laggan Bay. Note a standing stone over to the right, just before the track leads on through a gate.

Stage 3

Continue ahead through the gate, taking the right branch at a fork. The going becomes very boggy, and the track finally peters as the ruins of the long deserted village of Ghrasdail are reached - note the lime kiln over to the right. Back in the 1830s around 1,500 people lived on the Oa in townships such as this and Tockmal on the other side of the glen, but over the next 30 years the building of the planned village at Port Ellen saw such places abandoned. Pass through the ruins and continue west, eventually sloping down towards the burn whilst avoiding boggy ground as much as possible.

Stage 4

Go through a gate just before the burn (the Sruthan Poll nan Gamhna) is reached. As the burn approaches the sea it falls into a deep ravine, so cross it just above this and carefully follow the path down the far side. This leads over the top of a dramatic rock arch onto a grassy headland, with stunning coastal scenery all around.

Stage 5

The arch and ravines are impressive enough, but the best known feature is the isolated stack known as the Soldier's Rock seen on the left. Retrace your steps over the burn and back through the gate. If you've found the going hard already, it is easier to return the same way, but to continue back by the rougher coastal route, turn left alongside the fence.

Stage 6

There is a faint path that keeps a little back from and above the coastline - it is very boggy in places. At several points the going is made harder as the path pushes through deep mud in stands of low woody willow - it's a bit of a trial. When a fence is reached there is a gate, but it probably will need to be climbed with care. After 1.5km or so the steeper ground on your right relents and the route emerges from the bushes.

Stage 7

Pass just to the left of a small concrete water reservoir high above the fine sandy beach at Port Aslaig. Continue northeast across tussocky grassland with sections of track to eventually cross the burn and rejoin the outward route. Turn left here to return to the start.

Route Profile

Where to stay

Islay, Jura & Colonsay Hotels

Islay, Jura & Colonsay B&B

Islay, Jura & Colonsay cottages

Islay, Jura & Colonsay hostels

Glamping and Camping

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