Soldier's Rock and Kintra circuit

This rugged walk explores the moorland and deserted villages west of Kintra en route to a dramatic corner of the coastline with a fine sea-stack. The return keeps high above the sea before a very soggy descent through scrub.

Terrain

Track initially, then soggy, pathless moorland. Some rough, boggy going on return. Livestock on route, dogs are discouraged and should be kept under tight control.

Public Transport

None.

Start

Parking at entrance to camping area, Kintra. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

Users' reports

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Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

Walk Statistics

Distance: 7.75km / 4.75 miles
Time: 3.5 - 4 hours
Ascent: 175m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NR320483

Maps, App and GPS

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Accommodation

Walk Description

Stage 1

On reaching Kintra do not park in the farmyard; instead there is a small parking area just through the gate on the right (the entrance to the campsite). To begin the walk, turn left at the track junction to head west at first, with grand views to the right across the vast 8km sweep of sand that fills Laggan Bay.

Stage 2

The track soon swings inland, heading southwards - ignore the faint track heading right across the burn, instead continuing on the main route, which does soon ford the burn itself. Continue along the track for another 1km to reach the ruined house at Frachdale. Turn right here, following a sometimes muddy track as it climbs, revealing more views along the length of Laggan Bay. Note a standing stone over to the right, just before the track leads on through a gate.

Stage 3

Continue ahead through the gate. The track finally peters out in boggy ground as the ruins of the long deserted village of Ghrasdail are reached - note the lime kiln over to the right. Back in the 1830s, around 1,500 people lived on the Oa in townships such as this and Tockmal on the other side of the glen, but over the next 30 years the building of the planned village at Port Ellen saw such places abandoned. Pass through the ruins and continue west, eventually sloping down towards the burn whilst avoiding boggy ground as much as possible.

Stage 4

As the burn (the Sruthan Poll nan Gamhna) approaches the sea it falls into a deep ravine; cross the burn just above this and carefully follow the path down the far side. This leads over the top of a dramatic rock arch onto a grassy headland, with stunning coastal scenery all around. The arch and ravines are impressive enough, but the best known feature is the isolated stack known as the Soldier's Rock seen on the left.

Stage 5

Retrace your steps back over the arch and then back over the burn above the gorge. The walk now heads east, climbing well above the shore as it heads back towards the start. Animal paths (made by wild goats, sheep and deer) help lead through bracken and heather until a fence bars progress. Head downhill beside the fence to reach a gate, then head through this into an area used for cattle grazing. There are a couple of patches of scrubby woodland to negotiate - follow the cattle paths through this, with very muddy going in places.

Stage 6

After the second section of woods, pass just to the left of a small concrete water reservoir high above the fine sandy beach at Port Aslaig. Continue northeast across tussocky grassland with sections of track to eventually cross the burn and rejoin the outward route. Turn left here to return to the start.

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