West Highland Way 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan

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This is perhaps the toughest section of the West Highland Way - taking by surprise any walkers expecting an easy lochside stroll. The route is very scenic with some beautiful native woodland as well as short, less attractive forestry sections - and good views over Loch Lomond for much of the way. Refreshment and accommodation is available at Inversnaid Hotel and Inversnaid Bunkhouse; and there are also two MBA bothies on route. Camping at Beinglas, and Hotel and B&Bs at Inverarnan near the stage end.

Terrain

Some forest tracks but also much rugged walking and ascent/descent on the lochside path which is very rocky and rough at times. Not suitable for bikes.

Public Transport

None to start. Summer ferry from Tarbet to Rowardennan, buses to Tarbet; Inverarnan has Citylink buses from Glasgow and Fort William.

Start

Rowardennan. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

The West Highland Way follows the minor road towards the Youth Hostel passing between the Visitor Centre at the car park and the start of the main path up Ben Lomond. However if you haven't been before it is worth taking the lochside path to see the memorial to fallen members of the armed forces to whom the whole area is dedicated as a memorial park. Rejoin the road heading north, keep right at the entrance to the youth hostel and then bear left at the fork to head through oak woods. Keep right at the entrance to the hostel at Ptarmigan Lodge, staying on the track.

Stage 2

Continue on the track, ignoring the entrance to Ardess Lodge off to the right. The Way now keeps right at another fork and passing through a metal gate. The track now climbs through forestry, and eventually a signpost is reached. Turn left here, leaving the track to follow a well-made path that keeps much closer to the shore. The path undulates through the trees but is well maintained and gives good views over the loch. After 3km ignore a rough track climbing to the right and instead stay on the path, which itself soon climbs through plantation forestry. A path on the left leads to Rowchoish an open bothy maintained by volunteers of the Mountain Bothy Association. If you choose to visit or use this,, please help the maintenance volunteers by carrying out any rubbish you find there, and always follow the bothy code. Back on the main path, the route soon climbs to join a larger path coming in from the right - turn left along this.

Stage 3

Continue on the undulating path, with occasional views across the loch to the distinctive shaped mountain The Cobbler. There is more open woodland with many up and down sections and small burns to cross. After the bridge over the Cailness Burn a pretty cottage is passed and at the next bridge Craigrostan Woods is reached. This is an large remnant of the ancient oakwood which once covered the whole area.

Stage 4

The woods survived here because the bark was valuable for tanning leather which was much in demand during the industrial revolution. More recently the wood has been threatened by non-native species, and is protected with a regeneration plan which aims to maintain this important habitat for pine marten, pied flycatcher and wood ants. The presence of more leisurely-paced walkers will indicate that you are nearly at Inversnaid, where the cruise boats often drop visitors for a short time and the large hotel hosts coach parties. A couple of bridges over Snaid Burn provide good views of the fine waterfall - inspiration for Gerard Manley Hopkins renowned poem.

Stage 5

Continue down steps to reach the front of the hotel, which welcomes walkers for refreshments and has a bunkhouse. Pass in front of the hotel which also operates a ferry to Inveruglas across the loch - a link with the northern end of the Cowal Way. Just beyond the hotel the old boathouse is passed before a path on the right leads to the RSPB Nature Trail, which is worth taking if you have the energy - it rejoins the route further on.

Stage 6

The roughest section of the route is now encountered with many up and down sections over stones and tree roots. However the setting is beautiful in fine native oak woodland; look out for the wild goats whom you may smell before you spot them, the only disturbance likely to be from the occasional boat cruises that come in close to view Rob Roy's cave. The path climbs steeply and then descends a flight of rough stone steps - at the bottom of which is a signed detour on the left to the cave. This is where the famous outlaw allegedly held his captives, although for fans of caves it is very unimpressive and not really worth the slippery scramble over and between the huge boulders that block the entrance. The massive painted sign is for the benefit of the boat cruisers.

Stage 7

The path continues to twist along the lochside, passing a small beach with a good view of Island I Vow. After the end of the Inversnaid Reserve a bridge leads to another short rough section with a high flight of wooden steps. Soon the path climbs away from the loch over easier, grassy terrain east of Creag a' Mhadaidh. The path then descends with fine views ahead to a ruined house and then the bothy at Doune - another open Mountain Bothy Association shelter in an old byre. Again, if you visit the bothy, please help the maintenance volunteers by carrying out any rubbish you find there, and always follow the bothy code.

Stage 8

After another footbridge and stile a short detour path on the left links to the jetty at Ardleish. Here an orange ball can be hoisted to summon the ferry to Ardlui when operating; on the far side there is a campsite, shop, pub, accommodation and train and bus stops. On the short climb just east of Cnap Mòr there is a memorial to Dario Melaragni, organiser of the popular West Highland Way Race, the fastest runner has completed the entire route in just under 15 and three quarter hours. Take a long last view back over Loch Lomond from the top.

Stage 9

The next section has lovely views to the mountains in the north. The path continues past the ruins at Blarstainge, descending gently through woodland to eventually reach the footbridge and Beinglas Farm just beyond. Here there are wigwams, camping, B&B, food and drink and a small shop. There is more accommodation in Inverarnan just off route on the A82; for this, turn left at the information board to follow a path down towards the river skirting the edge of the field away from the campsite. When this link path reaches the track turn right to cross the bridge, and then left afterwards (less than a kilometre in total).

Next stage: Inverarnan to Tyndrum

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West Highland Way 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan

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