John o'Groats Trail: Berriedale to Dunbeath

The ninth stage of the John o' Groats Trail is a rough coastal clifftop walk along the Caithness coastline. There is a fine coastal arch, a waterfall falling into the sea and an impressive rock stack along the way.

Terrain

Tussocky, pathless clifftop walking with some very boggy sections. Some barbed wire fences may not have stiles.

Public Transport

Bus service along the A9.

Start

Cottages on south side of river at Berriedale (no road access - nearest parking near post office or at layby on bend on A9). Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

This stage starts from the cottages on the south side of the river at Berriedale (reachable from the A9 along a private road). Cross the bridge and head along the pebbly path towards the cottages on the far side. After the first house turn left between two properties onto a grassy path which then becomes a rough track heading uphill towards a gate on a bend of the A9. Before reaching the gate leave the track and continue up rough ground (some tracks) just to the right of the road embankment. Keep to the right of a wall enclosing a cemetery, crossing a gate at the top and then turning right along the inside fenceline above the coastal cliffs. This part of the route is waymarked with white paint splashes.

Stage 2

Continue just inside the clifftop fence for one long field. Finally the route cuts slightly left to cross a stile and then continues as the clifftop fence is dilapidated for the next several minutes walking. When a good fence resumes, keep to the outside through dense grasses. Be careful as the way is narrow outside the fence for some distance. Pass a wooden lookout hide and cross a culvert containing a burn. Continue on a path across a grassy area and then cross a tiny bridge. Here the route bends left into the trees; turn immediately right, emerging and heading up through a gate, back on the inside of the clifftop fences.

Stage 3

After passing through a gap between a fence and wall there is briefly a path to follow; leave this as it curves left to head through another gate by the fence corner. The route now continues as a narrow grassy path through thickets of vegetation, mostly just to the left of scrubby trees. A few old fence posts help act as a guide, continuing across the slope until a plantation of straggly Sitka spruces is reached. Turn right to pass this around the downhill side, keeping to the outside of the fence. Soon there are views towards a fine waterfall some distance further along the coastline, and a small arch much closer at the foot of the cliffs.

Stage 4

The next section has a few stiles and white paint markers, crossing several fences. Eventually the route runs to the left of a substantial drystone wall, crosses another stile, and then passes outside the wall through a gate that leans on a post. Continue outside the wall, following a faint track. Further on there are close-up glimpses down to the waterfall which was seen earlier in the distance. Cross a small burn and remain outside fences, and finally go through a low pedestrian gate. Just beyond this is very tussocky ground which slopes steeply down to a burn; at first glance this descent looks impossible, but if you bear slightly left initially over the tussocks after the gate, and if you find marker posts, it is possible to make a careful diagonal descent to the right to reach down to the burn, where a bridge is unexpectedly revealed at the last moment.

Stage 5

Cross the bridge and head up the steep grassy slope beyond, zig-zagging and following marker posts. Keep to the right of a stone wall at the top, back above the clifftops. Soon there is a view to the headland of An Dun, which is almost split from the mainland by a steep slit-like arch. Keep to the seaward side of the wall, passing through a gate in a fence which cuts right towards the sea.

Stage 6

There are views down to a fine sea stack known as The Clett. Steep drops mean it may be necessary to use the inland side of the walls and fences for a time, but please stay outside fences whenever possible to avoid damaging fences and walls and to wear a better trail outside. One wall heading out to sea from a junction of walls can be passed by means of a sheep-creep. When a fence cuts right from the walls cross the gate to continue to the right of a stone wall. Soon there are great views looking back along the coast to both The Clett and An Dun.

Stage 7

Keep to the seaward side of the walls, crossing a small footbridge at one point, until two marker posts indicate two slightly different alternative routes both turning left - the first over a stile before a wall, and the second over a gate just after the wall; the latter is the better route unless there are livestock present, as the near side of the wall becomes boggy. Head away from the coastline up beside the wall until another JoG Trail signpost points the route diagonally right across the field. Continue to reach a stile, and then head across newly planted ground to a second stile leading into a plantation.

Stage 8

Go into the woods, turning left at a fork to cross a footbridge. The route continues through the trees parallel to the A9, emerging at the driveway to Dunbeath Mains. Go straight across this driveway (there are stiles over the walls on either side); once over the far stile turn left and go through a gate to continue along the edge of the trees parallel to the A9. Eventually the path leads through a gap in a stone wall; turn left beyond and meet an old track (once a road) - turn right along this. This soon becomes a more maintained tarmac lane; keep ahead to reach the top end of Dunbeath village with the post office on your right.

Stage 9

Keep straight ahead at a junction with the war memorial, passing the fire station (on your left). Eventually the main road turns sharp left and a narrow road goes off right - ignore both of these, instead taking a footpath straight ahead. This leads past a bench seat and soon gives great views down to Dunbeath harbour. Follow the path down the hill, turning left near the bottom to cut a corner to a track. Cross a footbridge over the burn to reach Dunbeath harbour and the end of the stage.

Next stage: Dunbeath to Lybster

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