Dunnet Head

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Summary

Dunnet Head is the most northerly point of mainland Britain. This superb and challenging coastal walk approaches it along the top of its fine sandstone cliffs, rich in birdlife and now a nature reserve. There are superb views, particularly across the sea to Hoy.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

Rating

Terrain

Narrow paths in the heather with steep ascents and some boggy sections. Much of the route is along unprotected vertical cliff edges and great care is needed.

Public Transport

None to start, nearest bus Dunnet village, 1km off route on a minor road.

Start

Dwarwick Pier. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 17km / 10.5 miles
Time: 5.5 - 6.5 hours
Ascent: 240m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: ND207713

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (1)

Stage 1

There is parking at Dwarwick Pier. The concrete slipway bears a plaque commemorating a visit by the Queen en route to visit her mother at the nearby Castle of Mey; there is also a picnic area. Begin the walk by following the clear but narrow path which climbs up through a kissing-gate and continues up the steep hillside to the west. It soon crosses another path running across the hill; continue straight ahead uphill here as the path to the left ends at a cliff-edge.

Stage 2

At the top of this steep rise the going levels off into heather moorland; the Northern Gate House is the fine whitewashed house visible far to the right. Continue gently downhill on the path just back from the cliff edge to the next bay; if the tide is out there is an inaccessible sandy beach below the cliffs. At the far end of the bay is the decaying ruin of a house; beyond this the path climbs steeply before levelling off onto another high moorland section. Pass the top of two deep geos (rocky inlets carved by the sea) - Rowrash and the Stony Mouth.

Stage 3

The two small outflows of the Loch of Bushta are crossed, the second at a dramatic geo known as the Thirl. Just beyond this is Chapel Geo - the group of stones to the right here is all that remains of the chapel that gave it its name. Just beyond Chapel Geo the coast rises steeply once more and the path cuts across the steep slope above the cliff. Great care is needed if tackling this dangerous section which can instead be avoided by heading directly up the very steep heather slope aiming just to the right of the broken rocks, with good views back over the Loch of Bushta. Once above this steep climb you can either rejoin the path over to the left, passing behind the shallow but broader Rowramps geo, to reach a second steep rise, or you can avoid this too by tackling the heather slopes of Chapel Hill ahead more directly. Either way, the walk resumes above these two steepest climbs on the walk.

Stage 4

The great sandstone cliffs are now around 75 metres high, a great habitat for hordes of nesting seabirds including puffins in summer as well as guillemots, fulmars, razorbills and kittiwakes. Detour slightly to the right to pass the back of the vertically-sided Donald Gear's geo. The views are superb, from the undercut Holburn Head to the west and the great cliffs of the island of Hoy to the north, its famous Old Man seen sticking up over a lower promontory. The Red Geo is next, perhaps the most impressive of all, its great walls of sandstone giving it its name. Dunnet Head lighthouse has come into view, seen across Sanders Loch; continue round to reach the wider Ashy Geo with more fine cliff scenery. After just over another kilometre there are two geos together enclosing a narrow strip of vertically-sided rock.

Stage 5

Further on is a deep trench running parallel to the coast, known as the Long Byre. It is best negotiated by keeping to the right. Continue round the clifftop towards the Lighthouse; when the path forks on the approach to the fine stone wall, take the right hand fork alongside the wall to reach the Dunnet Head road, turning left to visit the Lighthouse. Like most in Scotland it was built by the Stevenson family who specialised in lighthouse construction; Dunnet Head was build by Robert Stevenson who was the grandfather of the writer Robert Louis Steveson. Amazingly, although the light is a towering 105 metres above sea-level, the windows have been smashed by rocks thrown up from the sea during terrific storms. Dunnet Head is the most northerly point on mainland Britain.

Stage 6

It is well worth making the short ascent up to the viewpoint on top of the hill, marked by a triangulation pillar. To reach it, facing away from the lighthouse, take the track that heads off to the left just before reaching the outer stone wall. The track winds up to the top between derelict old army buildings. This was an important place during the second World War as the views stretch across the whole northern coastline from Cape Wrath to Duncansby Head, whilst more importantly there is an excellent view of the entrance to Scapa Flow, the great natural harbour at the heart of Orkney which acted as base for the British fleet. Today's visitors are most likely to be impressed by the view of Hoy in fine weather, its red sandstone cliffs rising to a great height and with the Old Man just visible over to the left.

Stage 7

Return back to the Dunnet Head car park; unless you have arranged to be picked up, most of the rest of the walk is along the road to the south. It curves around the Long Loch and has some fine scenery and views. It reaches the coast at Brough; it was from here that the materials for the lighthouse had to be taken to Dunnet by horse and cart. There are good views across the rocky bay, marked by the stack of Clett. Continue along the road to a t-junction; turn right here (signed for Thurso). After two more kilometres, and two hundred and fifty metres after a bend to the left, a grassy path heads off to the right. This enables a short-cut across to the minor road in West Dunnet. Turn left and then immediately right off this road, and then left at the next two t-junctions, before finally turning right along the public road. Follow this past the houses and go straight on at Mary Ann's cottage - a small but excellent museum of crofting. The road leads on down to Dwarwick Pier.

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