Dunnet Head circuit

Summary

Dunnet Head is the most northerly point of mainland Britain. This superb and challenging coastal walk approaches it along the top of its fine sandstone cliffs, rich in birdlife. There are superb views, particularly across the sea to Hoy.

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Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Narrow paths in the heather with steep ascents and some boggy sections. Unprotected vertical cliff edges - great care needed. Waymarked as North Coast Trail until return route. Tracks and short final section of quiet road.

Getting there

Start

Dwarwick Pier.

Public Transport

None to start, nearest bus Dunnet village, 1km off route on a minor road.

Start Grid Ref

ND207713

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 17km / 10.5 miles
Time: 5.5 - 6.5 hours
Ascent: 240m (Profile)

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Explorer 451 - Thurso

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

There is parking at Dwarwick Pier and picnic area. Begin the walk by following the clear but narrow path which climbs up through a kissing-gate and continues up the steep hillside to the west. Continue straight ahead uphill ignoring any smaller paths/sheep trods.

Stage 2

At the top of this steep rise the going levels off into heather moorland as it follows the cliff edge. The Northern Gate House is the big whitewashed house visible far to the right. Continue gently downhill just back from the cliff edge to the next bay; if the tide is out there is a lovely sandy beach below. Keep straight where a path heads both right and down to the beach (north coast waymarker may be pointing the wrong way here). At the far end of the bay is the ruin of a building; beyond this the path climbs steeply (through braken in summer) before levelling off onto another high moorland section. Pass the top of two deep geos (rocky inlets carved by the sea) - Rowrash and the Stony Mouth.

Stage 3

The two small outflows of the Loch of Bushta are crossed, the second at a dramatic geo known as the Thirl, stay on the waymarked seaward path. Just beyond this is Chapel Geo - the group of stones to the right here is all that remains of the chapel that gave it its name. Just beyond Chapel Geo head directly up the very steep heather slope on the waymarked path (ignoring a path nearer to the coast). Once above this steep climb the route rejoins the cliff edge, passing behind the shallow but broader Rowramps geo, to reach a second steep rise.

Stage 4

The great sandstone cliffs are now around 75 metres high, a great habitat for hordes of nesting seabirds including puffins in summer as well as guillemots, fulmars, razorbills and kittiwakes. Detour slightly to the right to pass the back of the vertically-sided Donald Gear's geo. The views are superb, from the undercut Holburn Head to the west and the great cliffs of the island of Hoy to the north, its famous Old Man seen sticking up over a lower promontory. The Red Geo is next, perhaps the most impressive of all, its great walls of sandstone giving it its name. Dunnet Head lighthouse now comes into view, seen across Sanders Loch; continue round to reach the wider Ashy Geo with more fine cliff scenery. After 1km more there are two geos together enclosing a narrow strip of vertically-sided rock.

Stage 5

Further on is a deep trench running parallel to the coast, known as the Long Byre, the path keeps right here. Continue round the clifftop towards the Lighthouse and turn right before the stone wall to follow it up to the road. Turn left to cross the cattlegrid, pass the car park and approach the Lighthouse. Like most in Scotland it was built by the Stevenson family who specialised in lighthouse construction; Dunnet Head was build by Robert Stevenson who was the grandfather of the writer Robert Louis Steveson.

Stage 6

Amazingly, although the light is a towering 105 metres above sea-level, the windows have been sometimes been smashed by rocks thrown up from the sea during terrific storms. Dunnet Head is the most northerly point on mainland Britain. There is an excellent viewpoint down on the left (W) side of the lighthouse. The walk continues by taking the track uhpill to the left (as you stand with your back to the lighthouse) alongside a stone wall. Soon some derelict old army buildings are reached. This was an important place during the second World War as the views stretch across the whole northern coastline from Cape Wrath to Duncansby Head.

Stage 7

Take the wide path to the right after the first building (opposite the disabled parking) to reach a viewpoint and white trig point. There is an excellent view of the entrance to Scapa Flow, the great natural harbour at the heart of Orkney which acted as base for the British fleet. You can also see the high red sandstone cliffs of Hoy with the Old Man just visible over to the left. From the viewpoint take the middle path heading NE down and cross straight over the wide track towards the coast, forking right at a concrete slab and soon picking up the North Coast Trail waymarkers. Keep to the seaward side of a stone wall, cross an old fence line and follow the clear path which runs near the cliff edge, through braken in summer.

Stage 8

When another path branches right keep to the path nearest the coast (not aiming for the houses at Sinigoe), eventually crossing a stile, passing a picnic table and then heading out onto a small headland. The path plunges off the far end of this to descend to a basic footbridge and climbs next to a fence. Climb a stile, head right for a couple of steps then turn left to cross another footbridge and follow the path - very overgrown in summer - to the road.

Stage 9

Turn right then left to pass some bungalows above Brough Bay. Continue along the pavement to a T-junction; turn right here (signed for Thurso). After 2km, and 250m after a bend to the left, a grassy path heads off to the right. Take this to short-cut across to the minor road in West Dunnet. Turn left and then immediately right off this road, and then left at the next two T-junctions, before finally turning right along the public road. Follow this past the houses and go straight on at Mary Ann's cottage - a small but excellent museum of crofting. Keep right along the road to lead back down to Dwarwick Pier.

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