John o'Groats Trail: Keiss to John o'Groats

Summary

The final stage of the trail soon passes the dramatic coastal ruin of Keiss Castle and follows the coast passing Nybster broch and impressive cliff scenery before finally reaching Duncansby sea stacks and the lighthouse before the last short section to John o'Groats and the end of the trail.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Rough coastal walking; no path and some tussocky going as well as very boggy stretches; one barbed wire fences to cross that doesn't yet have a stile.

Getting there

Start

Keiss.

Public Transport

Bus to Keiss from Wick and John o' Groats.

Start Grid Ref

ND349609

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 21.5km / 13.25 miles
Time: 6 - 7 hours
Ascent: 325m (Profile)

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Walk Description

User reports (2)

Stage 1

In Keiss walk along the road towards the sea, continuing as the road turns left to head down towards the harbour. As the road bends back to the right take the coastal path to the left (you may want to detour to visit the harbour first), otherwise continue over short turf soon passing a WWII pill box. The ruins of the 17th century, clifftop Keiss castle can be seen ahead, the large white building on the left is Keiss House built to replace the castle in 1755.

Stage 2

Follow the coastal path and when it dips at a farm gate go through this to follow the inland side of the fence past the castle - the ruins are in a dangerous state and there is no access to the building. At the field corner go through the walker's gate and continue along the coast. The route follows the cliff top crossing stiles over a wall and a fence. Stay on the seaward side of the field fence, climbing one barbed wire fence with a waymarker and then a Caithness slab field boundary, and passing a couple of geos. The prominent square Mervyn Tower was built as a monument to Sir Francis Tress Barry, an English businessman and politician who excavated the Nybster broch in 1900. The irony is that the monument partially hides the iron-age broch which is on the seaward side and is well worth a look. From here a constructed path leads to a carpark at Nybster passing a small sandy beach and a jetty.

Stage 3

Don't enter the car park, instead keeping to the seaward side of the coastal fence. Pass round some geos, and continue along the coast. When a bungalow at Milltown is in view off to the left, bear half left (still well right of the bungalow) to reach a stone bridge over the burn (ignore the path going straight ahead, which leads to the burn but with no bridge). Cross this, and then resume along the clifftops, passing a stone building and keeping right of the fence. When Samuel's Geo is reached pass around it, noting (but not following) the steps down into the inlet. Further on is a fine sea stack, and a view down through an arch to the sea. Eventually the ruins of Bucholly Castle are seen ahead, perched dramatically on a rock headland. Continuing along the clifftops, the route crosses a stile over a fence.

Stage 4

Soon another fine sea stack is passed, and then a headland barred by a stone wall. Continue, crossing a stile and staying outside the fence until the barns at Freswick Mains are reached - immediately before Freswick Castle. A bridge has been made to enable you to continue over the burn, passing between the beach and castle. Continue ahead past Freswick Castle to cross a much larger burn on stones or on the beach. If the burn is impassable, go left round the castle to go through a wooden gate to use the bridge then fork right in the next field to pass through a gate giving access back to the sandy beach of Freswick Bay. Cross the beach; at the far end head up past some tank traps to reach the end of a lane. Head up this lane until it reaches a t-junction. Turn right here.

Stage 5

Ignore a turning on the left, continuing along the road for about 1km until a second junction where a lane goes right signed for the harbour. Turn right down this to reach a jetty. Continue along the coast once more, now on the outside of the field fences. The grass is tussocky at times but not impassable; the route eventually gains height and crosses a small burn before continuing above the cliffs of Skirza Head. The next section is a little convoluted, passing round the back of Rushy Geo and then the well-named Long Geo. When the fence is reached at the back of Long Geo turn right to cross the top of the geo and continue outside the fences.

Stage 6

This soon leads to a former Caithness flagstone quarry. At the bottom of the slope turn left to cross the flat area and then and then follow the path up to return to the coastline. For the first section the ground is very uneven and boggy, it does improve after passing Skippie Geo and a faint path can soon be picked up running along the cliff edge. There are a number of streams running down to the cliff edge and these can be very boggy, keep well inland from the cliff edge. The major first cliff feature to be reached is Wife Geo where a large stack has been left standing in an inlet where water rushes through two long natural arches.

Stage 7

After passing this go through a gap in some fence posts and keep following the faint path as you head north. Pass through two more gaps in the fence as the path improves and soon the first sight of Duncansby Stacks come into view. At times there is a fence on the cliff side. The lighthouse at Duncansby Head can also now be seen. The path improves and there are impressive views of the two large stacks and natural arch beyond - perhaps the true climax of the John o' Groats Trail. The stacks, and the more sheltered sections of cliff, are alive with seabirds during the nesting season. Follow the fence to a kissing gate and go through it and continue along the path next to the fence.

Stage 8

Head downhill to cross a plank bridge and keep following the wide path. A short cut path heads across to the left, or you can continue along the cliff top to view the stacks and the Geo of Sclaites before following the path to the car park at Duncansby Head. The lighthouse was built by the famous Stevenson family of lighthouse builders. Turn left down the road for around 200m before forking right to pass round the back of the Glupe, a great blow-hole and natural arch. From here keep well away from the cliff edge, aiming for a stile in a fence and then descending to reach the Bay of Sannick.

Stage 9

Cross the burn at the bottom. The way continues across the short-cropped turf that gives mostly excellent walking with only the odd boggy patch, soon reaching the Ness of Duncansby. There is an information board here and a seat, a good place to watch the tide race through the notorious Pentland Firth. Continue around the back of a bay of sand and seaweed, continuing on the grassy path, then through a kissing gate and through two further gates and onto a path and - as John o' Groats is approached - it descends to run alongside the pebbly shore on a surfaced path. This reaches John o' Groats through an arch and sign marking the end of the Trail next to the red foghorn and then the jetty and the famous distance sign on the grassy bank ahead. There's a cafe next to the former landmark hotel building for you to celebrate reaching journey's end.

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