A great coastal circuit from pretty Ferryden, taking in the lighthouse at Scurdie Ness and the elephant-shaped rock near Boddin Point before returning inland on minor road.
Mostly rough, informal coastal paths with some grazing land. Minor road on return.
Bus to Ferryden.
Ferryden car park.
There is a parking area in the old part of Ferryden, just past a fork in the road. From here follow the road east along the shore soon reaching an area of pretty fishing cottages set end on to the sea. Drying lines with pulleys use the space over the estuary. Look out for a sign for the lighthouse and Victoria Square - and turn right here. Turn left just before a black shed to follow a path uphill signed for the lighthouse.
This soon reaches a road, turn left and follow the single track road all the way out to the lighthouse at Scurdie Ness, passing a much older warning beacon. The lighthouse was constructed by David A Stevenson in 1870. Head down to pass to the seaward side of the lighthouse. There is a cairn to the TGO challenge, an annual cross-Scotland backpack, which many entrants complete at this point. Go past the lighthouse and through the kissing gate to follow a grassy path along the shore.
Continue along the grassy shoreline. Eventually a fence is reached - pass through the pedestrian gate. Looking back the lighthouse looks impressive against the sky. In the next field follow the line of telegraph poles to reach a gate at the Mains of Usan. Pass through this and then turn left, following a muddy track past the ruined mill buildings.
Note the ruined mausoleum over to the left, but follow the track to reach another gate into an area used by grazing cattle. Continue around the shore; eventually a wall is reached - climb a stile next to a gate to reach the next field. Follow the grassy shore until the headland at Usan. Here turn right up the grassy field to reach a corner, and go through the right hand gate onto a track. Turn left along the track and follow it to the buildings at Usan. Go through two more gates and then left along the lane.
Just before the ruined tower turn right - there's a sign for a path down to the shore, but our route doesn't head down, instead staying on the landward side of the fence along the clifftops. Follow the edge of the field (sometimes overgrown in summer) to continue along the coast. The rocky shore here is popular with anglers.
Eventually the route reaches climbs to pass around the back of an inlet - with views of the unmistakeable shape of the Elephant Rock seen on the far side. Climb up to the back of the bay and then turn left towards the cemetery which is above the rock. It is worth a look to spot the grave of George James Ramsay, looking out to sea, the inscription appaears to claim he died 19 years before he was born (1859 - 1840).
Continue on a clearer path along the cliff edge, with more good views back to the other side of the Elephant Rock. Soon the route passes above the salmon bothies of the salmon fishing station at Boddin Head.
At the house turn right and head up the road; there are good views down to the limekiln on the point itself which dates back to the 1700s - and along the coast towards Lunan Bay. Climb the hill, ignoring the driveway to a house, and crossing a bridge over the railway line. Turn right when a road junction is reached.
The road then bends left - keep straight on alongside the grounds of Dunninald Castle on the left. Bear right at the next junction to pass Balkiellie, following signs for Ferryden. Now keep straight on along the road all the way back to Ferryden, turning right a the bottom of the hill amongst the houses to return to the parking area at the start.
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