St Cuthbert's Way: Wooler to Lindisfarne

Summary

The final section of St Cuthbert's Way leaves Wooler for an initial climb over gentle moorland with lovely views. It then crossing undulating farmland en route to St Cuthbert's Cave - where his coffin was rested en route from Lindisfarne to Durham. After reaching the coast, the finale of the route is the tidal crossing to Holy Island (or Lindisfarne) - which needs to be very carefully timed to coincide with the correct tides.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Moorland and woodland paths, tracks and minor roads. Causeway to Lindisfarne only open twice a day at low tide, either on road or on sand and mud - check tide times before setting out. The route crosses some open pastures with livestock.

Getting there

Start

Wooler.

Public Transport

Bus to Wooler.

Start Grid Ref

NT991279

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 28.6km / 17.75 miles
Time: 7 - 8.5 hours
Ascent: 430m (Profile)

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Explorer 340 - Holy Island

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

Starting from Wooler's market place head down Church Street, passing the church (on your right). Beyond it, the park on the right is Tower Hill - the site of a 12th century wooden castle, and the remains of its 16th century stone replacement. Continuing down the street, the road bends right and reaches the busy A697. Head across and cross the bridge opposite. On the far side turn right after the bowling club. Pass behind the houses, with a playpark on your right. Continue when the path becomes a road, and turn left at the t-junction onto Brewery Road. Pass the school and continue out of the town, keeping straight ahead at a junction to begin climbing uphill.

Stage 2

When the road curves sharp right take the path which forks slightly left. This soon reaches the more open ground of Weetwood Moor, passing through a gate. There are great views back over to Wooler and the Cheviots beyond. At a path junction keep left (St Cuthbert's Way marker), then bear slightly at a fork and left again, reaching the remains of a stone wall, heading through a gate and passing just to the right of a small plantation. Continue ahead beyond this, but turn left at the next junction, then fork right, passing through a gate at the right edge of the trees. Keep the trees on your left as you follow a path, through high bracken in summer.

Stage 3

After a gate the path descends steeply, then after a final gate heads down to the road at the old stone Weetwood Bridge. Cross the bridge and keep straight on up the road signed for Horton. Follow the road as it bends right eventually reaching East Horton. Turn left here opposite the stone cottages (signed Lowick, Ancroft), and after 350m up the road turn right onto a tarred lane. This passes a WWII pill box and becomes a track. Stay on the main track as it curves left, eventually crossing a burn and before climbing up to an old schoolhouse (seat opposite and sometimes a snack honesty box). Go left onto the road here and then immediately right onto a narrower tarmac lane. Keep ahead at a junction (SP Belford); then when the lane bends right turn left onto a footpath. Keep right when this forks. It then curves left, heading through a gate. At a cross-roads of tracks turn right.

Stage 4

Keep ahead at the next junction, then at the edge of the plantation at Cockenheugh turn left after the gate, soon reaching St Cuthbert's Cave Wood. The cave itself is reached by a short detour to the right. The large overhanging rock is said to be where the carriers of St Cuthbert's coffin resting on the journey to Alnwick. Return to the route, passing through a gate at the edge of the wood and turning right uphill. At a fork bear right again. The path climbs with the woods on your right. At the top the route heads through a gate in a drystone wall. Immediately bear left through a second gate, and then right.

Stage 5

Follow the path downhill across open pastures. Cross a gated footbridge, then climb gently beyond; after cresting a rise there are views to Holy Island. Continue until a a track is reached; turn left here. Pass a small fishing lochan, keeping ahead at a junction onto a grassier track. Enter Shiellow Wood at a gate, then go right at a fork beyond. Now keep ahead, ignoring a path off right and a track joining from the left. As the main track bends right continue ahead onto a footpath. This crosses a couple of footbridges; keep straight across at a track. Further on, after a stile, the path runs along the edge of the woodland, sometimes amongst the trees and sometimes on the field edge. Keep following the path until the house at Blawearie. Here turn right onto a tarmac road and follow it downhill, keeping straight ahead at a junction to reach Fenwick. At the t-junction turn right.

Stage 6

There is a B&B and a cafe here. Continue to the junction with the thunderingly busy A1 (bus stop). Cross with great care and head down the minor road opposite, signed for Fenwick Granary. After passing this the road bends right, passing a row of cottages. Beyond these, turn left onto a waymarked grass lane. This climbs gently with good views of Holy Island, its castle prominent. Keep right at the top to follow the path round above an old quarry. It curves left and right, joining a muddy lane and then a minor road. Turn right here, then left at a gate to follow a path (Fishers Back Road) down a field edge. This leads to the mainline railway; the trains run at great speed so use the phone here to check it is safe to cross. On the far side continue ahead on the path. Cross a stile by a gate, and two stiles in quick succession, before heading diagonally half left through the next field to a gate and gravel track.

Stage 7

Head along the track but then turn right to follow a path towards the sea, reaching a twin line of concrete coastal defence blocks. Turn left to follow the blocks to a road - with the causeway to Lindisfarne on your right. The tide timetables are posted here; only attempt the crossing if you have plenty of time to complete it whilst the tide is still heading out - the walk takes around 90 minutes. Given the correct tide, there are two options - either following the road causeway all the way, or taking the old pilgrim route on the sands and mud itself; a local guide is officially recommended for the latter. For the pilgrim route you still need to use the causeway as far as a refuge tower, and then you can bear right across the sand, following the line of marker posts.

Stage 8

This is usually done barefoot, but watch out for an area of sharp shells just before Holy Island is finally reached. After reaching the island the road runs along the tidal shore for another couple of kilometres before continuing to Holy Island village. This is a beautiful spot, but can be thronged with visitors in the high season. Continue through the village to reach the ruins of Lindisfarne Abbey, founded in 635AD when St Aidan arrived from Iona. A fine statue of St Cuthbert stands just before the Abbey.

Stage 9

Before leaving Holy Island, be sure to make the short walk by the coastline to visit the picturesque castle, perched atop a dramatic crag. The castle was remodelled to become a romantic holiday home by Lutyens in the early twentieth century, and is now an attraction run by the National Trust.

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