The circuit around the coastline of the Isle of Muck makes for a superb walk, with varied terrain, cliff-top scenery, beaches, wild moorland and farm fields - and entrancing views throughout.
Mostly pathless going, some sheep tracks, short stretches of boggy ground etc.
Calmac ferry to Muck from Mallaig; additional ferry service from Arisaig run by Bruce Watt.
Port Mòr ferry jetty.
The coast just east of the main ferry slipway has barbed wire fences, so instead turn left from the slipway along the track to head past the old jetty and into Port Mòr . Pass the Green Shed and continue until a sign on the right indicates the excellent cafe - a small stone-built building with picnic tables outside. Walk up past the cafe to join the track heading uphill behind it, soon passing through a gate below the impressive new community hall. Continue following the track as it swings left through a second gate and climbs up past a 'pod'-style house. Once up on the moor, leave the track where it swings sharp right towards a building and head east - past the ruins of an old house at Carndearg - towards the coast, with the Isle of Eigg visible beyond. Don't drop down to the shoreline, instead following the grassy clifftops northwards once the coast is reached.
Though the cliffs are low, they pass above a couple of caves, and the views are superb, and there are only a couple of boggy patches to cross. When a fence is reached divert slightly left to pass through a gate before continuing towards Am Maol, the most northeasterly headland. This can be bypassed to the left but is worth a short detour for the outlook to Rum. Continuing round the coast, go through a gate in the next fence, keeping to the grassy shoreline to the right of another fence. When the fence relents a path leads inland towards a bungalow - head for this (to avoid more impassable fences) and then follow the access drive to the right, eventually reaching the main Muck road. Turn right along the road, which soon comes close to the island's northern coastline again.
The road passes the farm and the fine sandy beaches at Gallanach. Continue through a gate to the very end of the road. Turn right here onto a path, passing behind the corrugated iron shed. The path climbs towards a house - just before reaching it cross a stile on the left to gain the open ground above. Now head along the crest of the grassy ridge - the Aird nan Uan. Near the far end is a small circle of stones - the remains of a bronze-age cairn with several more modern graves added later. There are good views out to (Eilean nan Each) Horse Island, but the route turns south here to pass around the back of the next inlet. There is some boggy ground but most can be avoided by walking on the rocks- aim for the tiny turf-roofed cottage at the head of the inlet.
Pass the front of the old cottage and continue on the wet ground above the shore until a break in the crags on the left. Climb through this and then follow sheep paths high above the coast as it cuts southward once more. Head west across country, aiming just left of some crags to climb up a grassy slope to reach the cliff-tops of the west coast of the island. It is possible to make a short detour northward here to the highest point above the cliffs for the best views. Otherwise, the walk continues on superb grassy turf above the cliffs, which soon become more gentle. Eventually the route swings eastwards, up and down several humps, before reaching the foot of the final climb up to Beinn Airein.
To reach the top of Beinn Airein a sheep path climbs diagonally left at the foot of a broken crag, then swing right to reach the clifftop where there are some fenceposts and a dramatic view across Camas Mòr . A final steep climb up to the north leads to the flat summit of Beinn Airein, marked with a trig point.
From the summit head east, down a sheep-path through a break in the crags to reach the grassy pasture below. A gap in a fence leads into the next field; descend until a gate in the next fence leads to the grassy area above the back of Camas Mòr . Rather than following the true coastline onto Torr nam Fitheach (which does give superb views back to Beinn Airein) continue east to a drystone wall to reach a gate (this wall blocks the true coastal route). Go through the gate and bear diagonally right through the next field - which has a boggy area at its eastern end - to reach another gate at the far corner. A track now leads southeast; follow it briefly before bearing right to rejoin the coastline.
There is a final fence which almost bars the route along the clifftop - the end part is an old gate and palette strapped-together - avoid this by detouring 150m along the fence to reach a gate. Once beyond keep to the high grassy ground above the cliffs. As the coast heads east aim for the rocky mound of Caisteal an Duin Bhain. This outcrop was once topped with a fort - probably medieval - and there are remains of the stonework in places.
From the fort a path heads northwards, keeping well above the sea. When it forks take the higher left branch to continue along the top of the grassy ridge. This eventually meets a track; turn right to follow the track downhill. It swings left past a stone house to reach another track at the foot of the hill - turn left here (the right branch leads to the hotel). Soon the track emerges on the road - turn right, passing the cafe (you deserve a cake!) en route back to the ferry slip.
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