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Barnhill and the Corryvreckan Whirlpool

This long walk leads out to the northernmost point of Jura - overlooking the wild Gulf of Corryvreckan with its often raging currents - site of the famous whirlpool. The first section follows a rough track to Barnhill - where George Orwell wrote 1984 - before continuing to the old Kinuachdrachd harbour and then becomes very rough and boggy for the final stretch to the Carraig Mhor at the furthest tip of the island.

Terrain

Landrover track as far as Kinuachdrachd, then boggy path, becoming rough and indistinct on final section to the view over the Gulf of Corryvreckan.

Public Transport

None to the start; infrequent Jura bus service runs from Feolin Ferry to as far north as Ardlussa.

Start

Parking area at northern end of public road, north of Lealt. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 21km / 13 miles
Time: 6.5 - 7.5 hours
Ascent: 408m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NR669927

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Walk Description

Stage 1

The drive to the north end of Jura is an adventure in itself, on a snaking single track road with fewer passing places the further north you get. After Ardlussa, the road becomes rougher, and is gated near Lealt. Beyond here there is a very rough final kilometre until a parking area in an old quarry on the right marks the end of the public road. A signpost here reads the distances out to the north end of the island; begin the walk by continuing along the landrover track on foot.

Stage 2

The track leads across bleak moorland at first, before later giving views over the sea towards the distant mainland. The several kilometres trudge gives ample opportunity to ponder 'newspeak', 'doublethink', 'room 101' and 'big brother' which seem so alien to the empty, peaceful landscape here, but which were coined by George Orwell who wrote his novel 1984 at Barnhill, the first view of which is seen after over 5km of the track. The house must be one of the loneliest in the UK.

Stage 3

The track descends to reach a junction to the north of Barnhill; turn left here to continue the walk towards the north end. The bleakness is now left behind as the track approaches the verdant wooded oasis around Kinuachdrachd harbour. In the early twentieth century five families lived here, and a ferry service operated to the mainland until 1932.

Stage 4

Keep left at a fork (the right branch leads to the old jetty) to pass round the back of the bay. Keep a sharp eye out on the rocks and kelp as this is a haunt for otters. Beyond the bay a sign ambitiously marks the end of the 'road' but the track continues towards the one house that still remains here. Before reaching it, fork left onto a grassy path through the bracken - signed for the Gulf of Corryvreckan.

Stage 5

The path gives good going initially, climbing and passing between two old metal gateposts. There are views down to Port an Tiobairt where seals may be seen basking on the rocks. Further on the path becomes increasingly boggy underfoot. Pass through a gate or the stile alongside before continuing through the cottongrass, running along the left side of a knoll.

Stage 6

There is a short descent to another deer fence also with both a gate and stile, and a first view towards Scarba ahead. Beyond this fence the path soon begins to fragment and becomes less distinct. One branch heads up beside a burn towards An Cruachan, but the path to the north end keeps right here across the slopes.

Stage 7

Further on the original line of the path cuts down and across a steep bracken slope, but the more distinct path now means that most people gain a little height before crossing boggy ground to reach a couple of large rocky slabs overlooking the Gulf of Corryvreckan. From this vantage point the swirling waters of this notorious passage are well seen; in the 19th century the Gulf was classed as unnavigable by the Royal Admiralty. The tidal races through the passage combine with an underwater peak and a deep hole and can create remarkable surface effects, including a standing wave and the famous whirlpool - over towards the Scarba side and is said to be the second largest in the world.

Stage 8

According to legend the Corryvreckan was named after Breakan, a Viking captain who fell in love with a Princess from Jura. Breakan didn't understand the local custom of asking a girl's aunt for permission to marry, instead asking her father. For revenge, the Aunt made him undertake to sit at anchor in the gulf for three nights, secured by three different ropes. The hemp rope broke on the first night and the wool on the second, but the strongest rope - woven from maidens' hair - held until the third night when it too broke, due to weak threads from the Aunt's hair, and Breakan was drowned. George Orwell almost lost his life here too when his boat capsized and he was left stranded with his son on a rock, but he was rescued by lobster fishermen. Unless intent on your own more daring adventure, the return walk is back the same way - a distance that seems even further on the way back.

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