Rhuvaal Lighthouse, Bunnahabhain

Summary

A coastal there and back walk to reach the lighthouse at Rubh'a'Mhail, the most northerly point on Islay, good views to Jura and chance to spot otters and seals at the jetty.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

3.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Grassy track, indistinct and very boggy in places

Public Transport

None to start.

Start

Bunnahabhain. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 13.5km / 8.5 miles
Time: 4 - 5 hours
Ascent: 184m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NR418733

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (1)

Stage 1

As you approach Bunnahabhain, go past some of the houses and just before a bend as the road descends to the distillery, there is a triangle of grass on the left, usually with some parked cars, and a track leading away to the left. Park here and, unless detouring down the road to visit the distillery, take the track inland. Go through the gate and turn right immediately past the concrete sheep fank on the right. Head down past this to reach a gate which leads to a track descending into a wooded dell - fork left part way down to cross a footbridge over the Abhainn Araig.

Stage 2

Climb the track on the far side. This becomes vague at first as it subdivides but soon becomes clearer to follow. It roughly follows the line of the telegraph poles until it heads further inland to avoid a number of ravines. The track is very boggy in places but can usually be made out, the clearest sections are where it runs through bracken in high summer. There are good views across the Sound of Islay to the Paps of Jura, as well as back to Bunnahabhain Distillery. At one point the track fords a small burn.

Stage 3

Deer can often be spotted on this section - deer stalking is popular on Islay although it is Jura which is best known for large numbers of deer - the number of deer there greatly outnumber the small human population of around 200. You may also see wild goats who sometimes go right down to the coast to feed on seaweed.

Stage 4

The top of Rhuvaal Lighthouse is occasionally in sight although it is still a fair walk to reach it. On the final section the track dips steeply to cross a tiny burn before climbing out. It then curves left round the head of a boggy depression before aiming more directly for the lighthouse. The lighthouse was designed by David and Thomas Stevenson and built out of brick between 1857 and 1859, it is 36 metres high. The lighthouse is now fully automated but originally the lighthouse keepers would have lived in the cottages at the base - described by one critical commentator when they were built as, 'more like dog kennels than anything else'. Beyond it the islands in view are Colonsay and, in the distance, Mull.

Stage 5

The cottage and garden area around the lighthouse is now private and there is no access so when you reach the small track leading between the jetty and the lighthouse turn right towards the jetty. Descend down the track passing a stone built store to reach the jetty. This is a good spot to watch for passing seals or otters as well as seabirds. You can also visit the trig point on the high ground behind the store building. When you have enjoyed this spot the return route is by retracing the outward route back to Bunnahabhain. An alternative for very strong walkers out for a long day, who have also arranged transport from the far end, is to continue round the pathless headland beyond the lighthouse, crossing the wonderful Bagh an Da Dhoruis beach and continuing along the rough, intricate coastline with caves and arches to eventually reach the track near Killinallan Point.

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