The Lochalsh Dirty 30 Challenge

Summary

The Dirty 30 circuit can be completed as a tough long day or 2 day circuit over varied ground with great views. An annual challenge is held in June - click on the banner for details.

Please read the WARNING below before setting out on this route.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

A mixture of minor road, forestry track, and hillpaths, some of which are very boggy in places. Careful navigation required - some parts are pathless.

Getting there

Start

Glenelg village hall.

Public Transport

Bus service to Glenelg.

Start Grid Ref

NG814194

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 47km / 29.25 miles
Time: 12 hours+ or 2 days
Ascent: 1263m (Profile)

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Explorer 413 - Knoydart

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Walk Description

User reports (6)

WARNING

The Public Right of Way between Letterfearn and Ardintoul is currently closed for forestry work. Further on it has been blocked by a landslide near Dun Totaig (Caisteal Grugaig) but it is possible to get past using an informal, boggy detour. Please let us know if the forestry works have been completed and the route open.

The information shown above is the latest we have. If you have an update then please email us.

Stage 1

From the Village Hall in Glenelg head inland along the main road away from the shop. Cross the river and turn left at the junction to walk along the road leading to the Skye ferry (summer only). After passing the first house, there are good views back to the remains of Bernera Barracks. Keep on the road as it climbs away from the shore until a small car park is signed to the right just before the road descends to the ferry. Turn in here and go through the gate onto the track at the far end of the car park. Ferry House can be seen below through the trees and across the narrows, the houses at Kylerhea. Continue on the track, passing through two farm gates and into an area of open ground where the lighthouse can be seen on the far side of the water and a bench is passed.

Stage 2

The track now heads uphill and inland slightly and goes through a gate into forestry. At a junction turn left towards the shore and pass under a pylon after which the track narrows to a lovely path through mixed woodland with glimpses of the water below. Descend to cross a stream and after climbing up the other side, the path gradually leads down to the shore at Camas nan Gall. Here forestry operations have recently cleared pine trees on the shore side of the path so care needs to be taken. The path is clear to follow as it keeps to the edge of the shore along this delightful bay where otters and sea birds can often be seen.

Stage 3

Keep on the shore path alongside the stone wall as the path heads towards Ardintoul Point. Half way out to the point, turn sharp right through a break in the wall to follow a track inland going through a gate. At the junction, just before a large barn, turn left and pass some sheds and Ardintoul House. This is the first checkpoint on the Dirty 30 Challenge day. At the shore turn right and follow the road round to the right, ignoring the turning to the left to the other house and keeping right to pass a ruined barn on the left and then the road curves to the left and heads steeply uphill. At the top of the first rise turn left onto a faint path - currently impeded by fallen trees, which runs along a jutting out section of land before heading downhill to the Allt na Dalach where there is a pretty waterfall. Head to a footbridge 50-100m below.

Stage 4

Where the path meets a forestry track turn right and climb uphill. Near the top of the hill the track runs out and the path continues along a section of felled trees which is usually very wet underfoot. The track resumes for a while and then peters out completely after a short downhill section. Here turn right onto a faint path through dense trees. This is where the Dirty 30 really lives up to its name as the path is dark and boggy, sometimes diverting into the trees to avoid the worst mud. The path descends a grassy gap in the trees and joins a lower path, keep right here and soon emerge from the trees to head down through a cleared area with good views of Dornie and Eilean Donan Castle ahead. The path passes the impressive Caisteal Grugaig Broch on your right which is worth exploring if you have time.

Stage 5

Keep on the path as it enters the trees, crosses a stream and through a gate before reaching the gate, house and roadend at Totaig. This is the second checkpoint on the Dirty 30 challenge. Follow the road through a lovely woodland before passing the houses at Letterfearn. There are great views across the water to the Five Sisters of Kintail. Keep on the road, eventually passing the Youth Hostel at Ratagan and climbing slightly to meet the road to Shiel Bridge. Turn left and follow the road towards Shiel Bridge, and when the road bends left by Shiel Lodge continue straight ahead on the lane leading over the old bridge.On the far side, turn right on a track alongside the start of the campsite. Immediately after the campsite turn left along a path which follows the river before bearing left to climb to the left of a steep knoll - look out for the rocky old stalkers path - which is very well trodden - ascending off to the right.

Stage 6

A new section of track continues ahead but has been very poorly constructed with no drainage so it is much better to follow the old path. It climbs across the rocky ground that guards the lower entrance to Gleann Undalainn. There are good views over Loch Shiel at times. The path soon levels off as it heads into the easier terrain of Gleann Undalainn, with a fine view of The Saddle ahead, the Forcan Ridge on its left showing in profile. Continue along the path as it slopes down to cross a bridge over the birch-clad stream before continuing up the increasingly open glen. Looking back, Sgùrr an Airgid on the opposite side of Loch Duich closes the view. Eventually the path begins the longest climb of the day, sloping away from the Allt Undalain and climbing closer to the Allt na h-Innse Gairbhe. A small cairn marks a junction of old paths, keep on the main route which ascends to the right. As height is gained wonderful views open up of the Five Sisters of Kintail, looming high above the long ridge of Biod an Fhithich

Stage 7

The path is an ancient route to Glenelg via Moyle and Gleann Mòr ; it levels off and passes several small cairns and Loch Coire nan Crogachan until the top of the pass is reached and the path descends the other side, bearing right to reach the ruin of Bealachasan as the ground becomes less steep. Cross the stream here and follow the grassy track which heads up to a gate and stile and enters the forestry plantations. Continue ahead on this improving track, ignoring another track coming in from the right, until the track joins another just beyond a gate. Turn sharp left here and follow this bigger track downhill, with first views of Suardalan bothy across the river to the right. At the next track junction, turn right through the gate and over the bridge. On the far side of the bridge leave the track, turning immediately right onto a rough path which briefly but steeply climbs up onto the moor.

Stage 8

The path becomes very boggy as it briefly runs parallel to the river below before continuing towards the grassy pastures of Suardalan - the bothy is out of sight. The path descends to cross a fast-flowing stream before passing through a gap in the wall enclosing Suardalan's pastures. Continue straight ahead to reach the bothy. Suardalan is maintained by volunteers from the Mountain Bothy Association; please help by carrying out any rubbish you find here, and always follow the bothy code when visiting.

Stage 9

Turn left at the bothy, following the faint path heading south to pick up the track leading past Loch Mhic Aonghais on the right. Continue on this track which leads down the north side of Gleann Beag, passing a ruinous broch to reach the Dirty 30 checkpoint at Balvraid. From here follow the tarmac road to reach the magnificent Glenelg brochs, towering remains from the iron-age. Continue down the tiring miles of road, turning right at the Eilanreach junction to follow the coastal road past the war memorial to reach Glenelg and return to the start.

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