This excellent walk visits Chanonry Point - the best place in Britain for dolphin-watching - as part of a circuit including both great beaches and fine views.
Waymarked paths throughout; the steep ascent up Swallows Den can be avoided by heading straight back to Fortrose from Rosemarkie.
Bus to Fortrose.
Parking by the Cathedral ruins in Fortrose.
Start in Fortrose by the Cathedral ruins, where there is some parking. Head up to the High Street, and turn left along it; it's best to use the pavement on the far side. There are some very fine arts and crafts style houses along the road, especially on the right. Continue along the pavement until there is a very sharp turn to the left (St Andrews walk), which leads down to the harbour (signed for the beach and sailing club). From the harbour, continue along the road, passing in front of some attractive cottages. The road then climbs back uphill; turn right at the junction by St Andrews Church. Keep straight on, passing Fortrose Academy. Opposite the fairly new houses on the left, turn right to head through the small grassy area with picnic table and pick up the path on the left that leads into Fortrose caravan park.
Continue straight through the caravan park, keeping close to the sea; at the far end is a public footpath sign pointing three ways. Continue straight ahead, which is signed for 'Chanonry point - 1 mile'. The path heads through the gorse for a while before keeping close to the sea next to the golf course - so watch out for small white flying objects. At the end of the golf course, pass behind the sixth tee to join a track leading into Chanonry Point car park. The middle of the turning circle is marked with a beautiful sculptor "The Dolphin and the Bee" by Stuart Murdoch. There is also a memorial marking the point where the Brahan Seer was burned to death in boiling tar - a warning to astrologers. The point also has a lighthouse and a fine view across to Fort George, but is much more famous today as the best place in Britain to watch dolphins.
You can either continue along the pebbly shore to the right of the lighthouse to reach the point or if the tide is in follow the signed path which starts left of the bungalow next to the lighthouse. Dolphin-spotters usually watch from the furthest part of the point; if you are lucky and are here on an incoming tide, you'll see the dolphins swimming around, jumping from the water and catching salmon only a few metres out from the shore.
The east side of the peninsula is taken up by a fine sandy beach, stretching right to Rosemarkie. Either walk along the sand and pebbles or follow a path in the grass just alongside. Beyond the golf course, you'll pass Rosemarkie caravan site before entering the pleasant seaside village itself. Continue along the seafront to the end of the road; turn left here to emerge on the main road next to the Plough Inn. Turn right along the road (in the direction of Cromarty). From this point, you can extend the walk by detouring up into the Fairy Glen before returning here.
To continue the walk back to Fortrose, turn left onto a waymarked path opposite a car park (signed Swallow Den walk). This path climbs steeply uphill through the trees; although there are some steps, parts of the path are rough. As you gain height, there are good views down into a ravine on the right, and better ones of Chanonry Point and the walk so far over to your left. Continue along the path, which can be overgrown and muddy, until it joins a minor road. Turn left (signed Fortrose) down this road which emerges in the centre of Fortrose.
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