A magnificent circuit of Loch Affric. The walk keeps mostly well above the loch and passes through both fine pinewood and moorland scenery, with views of the mountains high above.
This is a long walk through remote terrain, with no escape routes. The going, however, is on good tracks and paths. Burn crossings are needed which are impassable in spate conditions.
None to start.
River Affric car park.
Park in the large car park at the end of the Glen Affric minor road - there is a charge. This is a popular picnic site, and there are toilets available. The walk begins along the track which is the continuation of the tarmac road; the track immediately forks - take the right hand branch which slopes slightly uphill. The 'No entry' signs are for vehicular traffic - there's no problem for those on foot. The track passes through birch woods at first, before these give way to Scots pine; the track keeps close to the small lower section of Loch Affric giving fine views of the magnificent trees all around and across the water.
You'll soon see a cottage down by the loch, next to a bridge over the narrow section. Don't follow the track which curves left to this cottage, instead keeping right on a path that skirts some estate buildings and keeps above the fence. The trees are more sparse here, and the mountain you can see ahead is Sgùrr na Lapaich, an outlying top of the higher Mam Sodhail which is hidden beyond it. The path soon joins a track once more, and then reaches and passes through a gate in the deer fence. These fences have been put up to keep the deer out of sections of the forest, to allow new trees to seed and grow. For years overgrazing had been prevented the forest regenerating, but now more enlightened policies are leading to the expansion of the area covered by natural pinewoods.
Continue along the track, which passes some magnificient old pines (known as 'Granny Pines'). The same trees that sheltered Bonnie Prince Charlie when he hid from government troops in this glen are still growing today; the same trees have harboured wolves and bear - out of all Britain's landscapes, only the arctic-alpine summits of the mountains are in as natural a state as this. There are also great views down towards Loch Affric, whilst the prominent distant mountain at the head of the glen is Mullach Fraoch-Choire, usually climbed from Kintail. Before reaching the bridge over the Allt Coire Leachavie a hydro track leads off to the right; ignore this and cross the bridge. The route now leaves behind first the pines and then the loch.
The landscape becomes ever barer and more stark; further on, the Allt Coulavie is crossed, which can be done using boulders unless it is in spate when it may be impassable. Continue on the winding track, passing above Loch Coulavie, until it finally joins a larger track. If you turn right here, a further four and a half kilometres up the glen you would reach Alltbeithe, the loneliest of all Youth Hostels. To continue our walk, however, turn left onto this larger track. This soon reaches Strawberry Cottage, a climbing club hut, and crosses the River Affric via a large bridge.
Once across the bridge, turn left along the river bank until you rejoin a track. Although the map shows a path keeping along the shores of Loch Affric for some distance, this way is very boggy and it is probably better to just stick to the main track. The track runs at a slightly higher level which benefits the views, which are even better from this side of the loch, looking over to the high mountains on the north side. As you continue down the glen the pine trees slowly reassert themselves, and you enter another protected enclosure through a gate.
The track continues for kilometre after kilometre; it may be hard on the feet but the forest and mountain scenery is second to none. As well as Loch Affric on your left, you'll also pass the small Loch Salach a Ghiublais over to your right; a hillock up to the left here is pathless but the short detour repays with a magnificent view of the loch.
Back on the track, the route crosses a bridge, and just beyond a footpath heads off to the right, destined for Cougie. Continue on the main track; you'll pass the narrow, bridged section of loch before eventually reaching a fork. Keep left here to return across the bridge over the river to the car park.
Please consider setting up a direct debit donation to help support the continued maintenance and updates to Walkhighlands.
