John Muir Link: Dunbar to Cockburnspath

Summary

Part of the original John Muir Way which now terminates in Dunbar, this coastal walk continues along the most easterly section of the varied coastline of East Lothian to Cockburnspath - providing a link with the Southern Upland Way and Berwickshire Coastal Path routes.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

3.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Pavements, some well-made surfaced footpaths, some narrow and potentially muddy, short section along a sandy beach.

Public Transport

Bus and trains serve Dunbar. There are buses between Dunbar and Cockburnspath.

Start

Dunbar. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 16.5km / 10.25 miles
Time: 4.5 - 5 hours
Ascent: 179m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NT679792

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Walk Description

User reports (1)

Stage 1

Occupying a strategic position at the mouth of the Firth of Forth, Dunbar has been in continuous existence since at least the 7th century AD. This section of the walk begins at Victoria Harbour alongside the remains of the 13th century castle once occupied by Mary, Queen of Scots (there is alternative parking at the leisure centre). Victoria Harbour itself was built in the 1840s and quickly become one of the most important ports in eastern Scotland, exporting grain and potatoes and supporting a massive fishing fleet now much depleted. Leave the harbour at the south eastern landward end and follow the signs through the maze of narrow streets to arrive at the Old Harbour dating from 1555 and built to replace the silt-prone harbour at nearby Belhaven Bay. Turn your back on the harbour, pass behind the row of 18th century houses and turn left to continue along the coast. At a T-junction outside Woodbush Cottage turn right and then left to continue eastwards.

Stage 2

The route runs below the A1087 road for a time, before turning left and joining a path between the golf course and golden sands at East Links. This footpath becomes narrow and skirts the seaward side of this important golf course - pay heed to polite notices requesting walkers to respect the movements of golfers and keep off the greens. The path travels north of the elegant Broxmouth Estate, itself immediately north of the site of the Battle of Dunbar where Covenanters under General Leslie were defeated by Cromwell in 1650.

Stage 3

Catcraig is an important geological site, where nine different limestones can be identified on the foreshore at low tide. A series of interpretation boards describe a Geology Trail, ending at the Barns Ness lighthouse, built in 1901 by prolific lighthouse expert D A Stevenson, cousin of author Robert Louis Stevenson. The lighthouse presides over a large expanse of marram grass, and the path bisects this to make for a very interesting 2km before arriving at Chapel Point overlooking the hulk of Torness Power Station. Follow the path around Skateraw Harbour and up a short, sharp slope onto a dedicated walkway incorporated into the pre-formed concrete sea defences.

Stage 4

Leaving the walkway the path heads briefly inland before turning left and reaching a caravan park. The signage here directs walkers through the park before reaching a footbridge over Thornton Burn. Cross this and continue along the sand and shingle beach for a short distance to a further bridge, follow the potentially-muddy path inland and then steeply uphill to the top of an embankment and the beginning of the final scenic clifftop section. Follow the path as it runs between arable farmland and the soft sandstone cliffs, with panoramic views across to the headland of St Abbs Head. Eventually the route heads inland and drops into the dramatic cleft formed by Bilsdean Burn and passes a waterfall before arriving at a stony beach overlooked by the remains of Iron Age Castledykes Fort, protected by a substantial rampart on the landward side.

Stage 5

Follow the beach for 500m and keep an eye open for a signpost indicating a footpath through the low woodland on the right - follow this inland passing the first of five bridges crossing Dunglass Burn, dating from the early 1600s and forming a vital crossing on the Scotland to London post-road. Continue upstream until the path reaches the high railway viaduct. Here there is a green signpost pointing to the large lay-by on the A1 which marks the end of the John Muir Link path. However, there is a lovely signed country path all the way to Cockburnspath and the end of the Southern Upland Way.

Stage 6

Now follow the wooden signs upstream signed Cockburnspath & Southern Upland Way. In 120 metres, turn left on the old A1 road. Cross the Dunglass Burn then turn right in front of a cottage and on up a forest track. This climbs steadily for 0.5km through mixed deciduous woodland. Half way up the second field, look for the signpost pointing left through a gate into the field. The path now contours across the middle of a large steep grass mound and heads up to the corner of the next woodland. From here there is a straight grassy path all the way to Cockburnspath. Once at the town continue straight ahead to the small village square. Bear left to follow the road gradually round to the right until you reach the end of the Southern Upland Way; the Berwickshire Coastal Path also starts from here. The Edinburgh - Berwick bus stops near here.

Stage 7

Some may find it more convenient to do this walk from Cockburnspath northwards to Dunbar. The public bus service is fairly infrequent and the sun will be on your back. Starting at the end of the Southern Upland Way, head into the village on Hoprig Road to the village square. From here follow the blue signpost to the right for the primary school (village shop opposite the school). At the tight bend beside the school, continue straight ahead onto a grassy track signed Dunbar via John Muir Way. From here, the path is fully signed all the way, initially, with the timber signs, then after the large railway viaduct, the green signs of the newly christened John Muir Link to Dunbar.

Route / photos: Phil Turner and Ian Brown

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