Prestonpans to North Berwick

Summary

The ninth stage of the John Muir Way leaves Prestonpans to reach the small fishing town and coastal resort of Cockenzie before passing alongside the vast expanses of Seton and Gosford Sands. The route passes through the medieval port of Aberlady before leading alongside Aberlady Bay, the UK's first Local Nature Reserve, and heading inland across fields and through woodland to reach the fashionable holiday resort of North Berwick.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

3.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Well-made surfaced footpaths and pavements, narrow and potentially muddy footpaths and tracks.

Public Transport

Trains and buses serve both Prestonpans and North Berwick.

Start

Prestonpans. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 25km / 15.5 miles
Time: 6 - 7.5 hours
Ascent: 68m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NT386745

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (3)

Stage 1

Head east along Prestonpans High Street until the town peters out and the bulk of Cockenzie Power Station comes into view ahead - the waymarked route passes between this and the seashore. Sometimes this section is closed, if this is the case continue along the pavement to rejoin the route at picturesque Cockenzie Harbour. Follow the shore-side road (or complicated network of shore-side paths) east from Cockenzie's small harbour to the slightly more impressive facility at Port Seton - both former coal ports that still shelter a small fishing fleet. Follow the green signposts leading along the promenade - resplendent with cheerful blue street furniture - as Port Seton is left behind and the wide sandy beach of Seton Sands comes into view ahead.

Stage 2

The path runs adjacent to the road on pavement for 2km before branching left at a signpost onto a smaller earth footpath into scrubland. The path travels through a large area of sea buckthorn, occasionally on sandy paths through the dunes and over wooden footbridges in Longniddry Bents. Cubic anti-tank defences from WWII are visible along the seashore as the path rounds Ferny Ness headland on a grassy path dipping in and out of the coastal scrubland.

Stage 3

Passing the grandeur of Gosford House and walled grounds is made slightly surreal by the snaking line of tank defences threading through the woodland, the path corralled by these large concrete blocks and the busy coast road. The going is easy and not as unpleasant as the description suggests, and Gosford Bay provides ample opportunity to watch wading birds such as dunlin and grey plover. In recognition of this the Scottish Birdwatchers Centre is soon passed (worth a visit for the lovely building, free art exhibitions and bird viewing area) before the easy path leads into Aberlady - known as Port of Haddington from 1633 until the harbour silted up in the 19th century. There are some lovely buildings here as well as a shop and two pubs.

Stage 4

Follow the main road east out of Aberlady on the safe, wide pavement to reach the important Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve with long wooden footbridge referred to by author Nigel Tranter as the "bridge to enchantment". Whilst walks can easily follow the coast route over the bridge, across the dunes and along the beach to Gullane, the John Muir Way caters for cyclists as well and therefore doesn't cross the bridge but continues along the pavement to pass the impressive gatehouse of private Luffness House - a house has stood on this site since the 12th century. As the road turns inland watch for the approach road to a golf course on the right, cross the main road, pass through a marked gate to the right of the drive and strike out along the good path.

Stage 5

The path skirts the boundary of a popular golf course with panoramic views ahead to North Berwick Law across an expanse of farmland punctuated by isolated copses and historic ruins - note Saltcoats castle over to the right. The obvious path, supplemented with the John Muir Way signage, eventually arrives in picturesque Gullane where the Way turns right to follow the main road through the town, with cafes and shops available. It is possible to divert left to visit the beach at Gullane Bay, widely regarded as one of the best in East Lothian (which is where you would emerge if you took the coastal route from Aberlady Bay.

Stage 6

As the pavement turns to roadside path be on the lookout for a 5-bar gate and associated signpost on the left - go through this onto a pleasant footpath through the trees. The path continues until the surfaced approach road to impressive Archerfield House is reached (cafe at the Walled Garden), complete with period-effect street lighting. Turn right well before reaching the buildings and follow the path as it skirts Archerfield Links before emerging at the edge of beautiful Dirleton village (impressive Castle, pub, shop). Turn left along a surfaced lane before reaching the village proper and proceed along a straight, obvious track turning into a grassy path through the farmland.

Stage 7

Reaching the woodland on the fringes of Yellowcraigs, turn right and follow the green fence through the trees, trending left to arrive at a car park. Take the path coastwards to be greeted with a clear view of rocky Fidra (rumoured to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island) before turning right and circling around the woodland to eventually follow a drystane dyke. Take the path through a narrow band of trees to be deposited at a gate with a dead-straight footpath across arable farmland ahead. Follow this, taking care to avoid damage to the surrounding crop, to reach the far side of the field.

Stage 8

The signposted path leads through a succession of lanes and gates to reach the first of North Berwick's multitude of golf courses, offering the walker unobstructed views to the islands of Lamb and Craigleith. The narrow footpaths and well-signposted maze of golf course paths end at a final gate opening out onto a quiet metalled road overlooked by grand private houses. Head left along Cromwell and then York Road before a left turn on Links Road leads to the edge of the golf course. Follow the road to the right here, then left onto Beach Road. Finally a right turn reaches the High Street in the town centre.

Route: Phil Turner

Next stage: North Berwick to Dunbar

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