Speyside Way 4: Ballindalloch to Grantown-on-Spey

Summary

This is the most strenuous section of the main Speyside Way, following paths and tracks through woods and fields with plenty of ups and downs along the way. There are fine birch woodlands, pastures with views of the heathery hills around, and the beautiful native Scots pines of Anagach Woods.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

Rating

Terrain

Paths and tracks through woods and pastures. A fair amount of ascent and descent and some boggy sections.

Public Transport

Buses to Grantown-on-Spey and Ballindalloch.

Start

Cragganmore. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 23.25km / 14.5 miles
Time: 5 - 6 hours
Ascent: 502m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NJ167366

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Accommodation

Moray hostels

Cairngorms hostels

Walk Description

User reports (6)

Stage 1

This stage begins in Ballindalloch where there is a small car park, informal camping, a seasonal toilet and an information board about the route. Begin by turning left along the line of the old railway, passing alongside the attractive old Ballindalloch station. Soon a missing bridge means that the route descends some steps to the left to cross a track. At this point, Cragganmore Distillery is close by but out of sight on the left. Cross the track to rejoin the old rail line and follow it through an avenue of lovely birch trees. Looking back there are good views towards Ben Rinnes.

Stage 2

Continue through more birchwoods until a fence blocks the railway and the Speyside Way turns left. It climbs up through the trees and passes through the first of many 'chain-gates' - these mark the next complex section of the route just as much as any waymarkers. Eventually the route bears right alongside a fence to cross a more open area. This can be very boggy underfoot, although there are stepping stones to cross the worst sections. The white building seen ahead to the left is the Tormore Distillery. Pass through several more chain gates; the route soon runs alongside a track and when this reaches a gate the Way veers left up the back through another chain gate, before climbing to finally reach the busy A95.

Stage 3

Carefully cross to the far side; there is a footpath (sometimes overgrown) which turns right to run parallel to the road away from the speeding traffic. Eventually this swings left, leaving the road behind and climbing a grassy path through some more chain gates, under the pylons and into the pinewoods above. Amongst the trees it meets a forestry track - turn right along this, following it uphill until a Speyside Way sign indicates where to turn right onto a path which threads between the trees. This descends steeply to leave the forest and meet a grassy track which slopes down to the right. When this meets a harder-surfaced track turn sharp left along it, and then right at the signpost to head down to a prominent new footbridge.

Stage 4

On the far side head up the track to the right, but at the gate fork right through another chain gate (waymaker). The Way now runs between two fences, soon turning left uphill and then right again, crossing a track and heading into the Woods of Knockfrink. Soon the path joins a track and then turns left at a junction to follow a forestry track through the trees. This leads through the plantation for almost 2km to reach a well-signed t-junction - turn left here. When the track reaches a gate, a marker post indicates a right turn downhill to reach the edge of the trees. Go through a chain gate and turn right alongside the fence, with good views over Strathspey. Continue downhill until a path with stepping stones diverts left away from the edge of the forest. After more chain gates the route bears right and then left to cross a small burn. Another series of chain gates lead along the upper edge of a birchwood.

Stage 5

Turn right at the end of the birchwood to pass a stone marking the beginning of the Cairngorms National Park. Go along the chain-gated section of path and then join a track to cross a tiny burn; on the far side the gated path bears left between the two fences. After lots more of the tiny gates - keeping heading through them all is your best guide to this section - the route turns to the right and leads through Meiklepark Wood. At the far end of this it turns right again, downhill, and then left along the top of a grassy scarp with good views to the right. It then bears right and left - a steep zig-zag downhill - before heading to the right between two fences. After a left turn, cross the footbridge over a burn, and continue ahead to reach a minor road. Cross this and take the path on the far side which turns right and runs parallel to it for a short distance. It then bears left uphill, through another little gate and climbs steeply between fences. At the end of the fenced section bear left past some fine birches to reach the edge of the forestry (and yet another chained-gate).

Stage 6

The route now follows a forest track, ignoring turns to the left and right. Further on pass through a gate and descend gently. Eventually another chain gate leads onto a surfaced track which is followed to the right down to the A95. Cross the road and turn right along the verge on the far side, then down the next track on the left. Turn left again (marker post) to rejoin an old friend, the route of the old railway line. This is now followed, straight as an arrow and flat at last! - for some distance, passing through several gates, over a bridge and across a tarred lane and a hard surfaced track. Ignore a footbridge continuing until a sewage works on the right. At this point the route descends the embankment to the left to reach a lane and turns briefly left before a right turn leads back onto the railway line (if you wish to visit the small village of Cromdale, which has a pub with accommodation (not always open at lunchimes), this is a short distance up the lane to the left). Otherwise the old railway leads on past the former Cromdale Station, now a private house. Continue under the road and curve right to reach to a minor road. Keep straight ahead, passing Cromdale House and heading towards the river.

Stage 7

Pass Cromdale Old Kirk which is beautifully set by the Spey. Continue over the metal bridge over the Spey and then turn left onto a track for a very short section before taking the signed path to the right which runs alongside a fence. After a shortish section go through a gate and turn left onto a track and soon the gate into Anagach Woods is reached. These woods are home to the rare Capercaillie (listen out for its distinctive horse hoof, clop clop, sound) - dogs should be kept on short leads from April to August to prevent disturbance of these birds.

Stage 8

Follow the main path through the woods keeping to the cycle path marked by thistle Speyside Way markers. Ignore a path to the left and later where the path forks keep left. At the next junction, bear right and then keep right again at a further junction, following the cyclepath. When a green shed and the golf course can be seen ahead turn left to stay in the woods. Cross an open area, then at a parking area keep ahead, with the golf course off to your right. Eventually an information point is reached by a path junction and houses. From here the next stage heads left, but for a short detour into the centre of Grantown, follow the road to the right keeping straight ahead at the staggered cross roads to reach The Square in the centre of the wide High Street.

Next stage: Grantown on Spey to Boat of Garten

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