This superb coastal circular links the fishing villages of Cullen and Portknockie by way of some remarkable cliff scenery. The return is along an old railway line, complete with viaduct.
Beach, coastal footpaths (care near cliff edge and on rocky sections); return via cycleway.
Cullen is served by buses.
Cullen.
Park in the square in the centre of Cullen. This picturesque fishing village has two parts; the genteel houses in the area around the square, and the tightly-clustered cottages of Seatown down by the harbour. Begin the walk by following the main road west, passing under the viaduct. Keep straight ahead when the main road bends left, continuing down to reach the harbour. Here, turn left along the road to pass behind the harbour and then between the cottages of Seatown and the coast.
As the road bends left keep ahead by the sea, crossing a footbridge over the river to reach West Beach car park. The fine beach begins in earnest on the far side of two great fin-like sea stacks. Unless the tide is high, head across Cullen Bay on the sand - popular with families in the summer. The cliffs of Portknockie ahead, and the greens of the golf course on the left make this an idyllic spot. At the far end of the sands continue across rocky ground at the base of the cliffs - this could be impossible with a very high tide.
Once round the first rocky bluff the going is easier as a grassy path continues above the high tide mark. On the right jagged rocks project from the sea; continue on the path to reach Jenny's Well. The next section of path has been constructed in concrete to keep just above the sea at the base of the cliffs. Beyond this the path becomes grassy again and then begins to climb diagonally up towards the cliff top.
On the right here there is a great view of the Whale's Mouth - a massive and deep rock arch, almost like a tunnel. Continue up the steps to reach the cliff top, where there is a bench with a great view back across the bay to Cullen. Turn right on the path that continues round the cliff edge; take care from here as the drop is vertical and unprotected. There is another seat on the headland looking straight out to sea.
The main feature off the coast to the right now is the Bow and Fiddle rock, busy with nesting fulmars in season. At first this is seen as a bulky but nondescript stack, but from further along its remarkable shape can be fully appreciated. It takes the form of a long, sloping stack (the 'Fiddle') joined to a second small stack by an arch (the 'Bow'); it also looks quite like a sinking ship! Continue round the coast to arrive at Portknockie by some workshops. Follow the tarmac lane that passes behind these and curves round to the right to meet the road. Soon the local authority housing is passed and the route continues past attractive stone-built houses, with excellent views to more fantastically-sculpted rocks below on the right.
Continue ahead on the road until it eventually curves left above the harbour. Again follow the coast road as far as the block-end road sign; here turn left and head up to the main road through Portknockie. Turn left along this (care with traffic), and continue when it curves to the right by the war memorial. Soon after, fork slightly left to pass behind the bus shelter. From here, join the signed cycle-way directly opposite the branch road; it runs along the now disused railway line.
The line soon passes under a road bridge and through some cuttings; when these relent there are superb views over the golf course far below to the beach and to Cullen. Eventually the route continues across the high viaduct with the main road and the cottages of Seatown far below. Over to the right the bald dome of a hill is the Bin of Cullen. A blue cycle way sign indicates where to leave the old rail line and turn right to head up a residential street. Turn left at the next junction and then follow the road straight ahead to return to the square at the start.
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