Cuilags, St John's Head and the Old Man of Hoy

Summary

This challenging hill and cliff walk climbs steeply over Cuilags before descending rough ground to the impressive cliffs of St John's Head before reaching the Old Man of Hoy and returning via Rackwick village and the Glen.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Minor roads, steep ascent, pathless moorland very boggy in places; unprotected cliff edge. Navigation skills needed.

Getting there

Start

Moaness Pier, Hoy.

Public Transport

Passenger ferry to Hoy from Stromness, usually met by a bus to Rackwick which could be used for the return trip.

Start Grid Ref

HY244039

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 20km / 12.5 miles
Time: 6 - 7 hours
Ascent: 677m (Profile)

Summits Climbed

Sub 2000: Cuilags

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Walk Description

User reports (3)

Stage 1

The passenger ferry from Stromness alights at Moaness Pier. From here follow the road, pass the cafe, and continue straight uphill ignoring the two turnings to the left. The great dome of Coulags, with a cairn visible on the top, looms ahead matching its higher twin, Ward Hill, which is to the left.

Stage 2

When the road bends right stay straight ahead onto a track and soon cross the burn just below the dam for Sandy Loch. From here a very faint path heads directly up the steep slope of Cuilags, eventually petering out as you climb the short heather.

Stage 3

The views open up as the relentless climb continues. Orkney is home to 1,700 pairs of arctic skua with Hoy having the second largest colony in Britain. Even though their numbers have reduced dramatically in the last 10 years you should see plenty of these large birds in the spring and summer months - take care not to disturb their nests which they will defend ferociously. After the slope eases a large cairn is reached with the summit of Cuilags and a shelter cairn a short way further on.

Stage 4

From the summit head NW and then W to the broad bealach before crossing lumpy ground interspersed with small pools and climbing to the lower summit of Sui Fea which is marked by a trig point. This area is very popular with bonxies (skuas) so take care during the nesting season and its also a good place to watch mountain hares. Cross a slightly higher point - marked by a cairn - and then descend almost directly W (faint path in places) to reach the boggy coastal path and the massive vertical cliffs of St John's Head.

Stage 5

Turn left (south) along the path. St John's Head has the highest vertical sea cliff in the UK at 346m high. It was first climbed as a 5 day assault by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970 and has since been free climbed by Dave Macleod in 2011 in just 10 hours. Continue along the coastal path which improves underfoot.

Stage 6

Eventually the sea stack of the Old Man of Hoy comes into view and the path heads for the clifftop above it. The Old Man is 137m high and has been formed by the erosion of the cliff from which it was once joined, a sketch dating from 1814 shows it much wider and with two legs. It was first climbed in 1966 by Chris Bonington, Rusty Baillie and Tom Patey over 3 days. The climb was repeated for a live TV broadcast the following year which attracted 23 million viewers. You are still likely to see climbers attempting various routes on all but the worst weather days.

Stage 7

The path to Rackwick climbs steadily to the crest of the hill where you get your last view back to the Old Man. After this the path is straightforward with good views of sandy Rackwick Bay and the cliffs beyond. The path starts to head inland, keep straight ahead where a path double backs to the right (this can be taken if you want the car park at Rackwick for the bus). Pass well below the turf roofed buildings up on the left (these are part of the heritage museum and are well worth a visit if you have time). After the path runs just to the right of a fence, go through the kissing gate and bear left - the two buildings here are also part of the heritage museum, the tiny lower building is the old schoolhouse which has some fascinating photos of past pupils and teachers.

Stage 8

Go through the gate which leads to the road just in front of the hostel and walk past the phone box. Keep left when the other road is joined and immediately after crossing the Rackwick Burn turn left onto the path signed for Moaness. The path up the glen is clear underfoot although it undulates as it climbs steadily to reach a high point just before Sandy Loch. Soon after starting up the glen you can see Berriedale Wood over on the left. This is the most northerly native woodland in the UK, with pollen analysis suggesting that this type of woodland would have been much more widespread in Orkney and Shetland at least 7,000 years ago. Continue past Sandy Loch, which is home to the red throated diver, and once over the outflow continue on the track and road straight down to the pier at Moaness - if you have time you can divert to the heritage centre in the old church on the right on the way down.

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