Ben Loyal

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Ben Loyal has a very distinctive profile, leading to it being known as the Queen of Scottish Mountains. Rising in an isolated position above the north coast, it makes a fantastic day out. The long ridge with four peaks offers superb 360 degree views of bog, moor, mountains and sea.

Terrain

Easy tracks to begin with but the lower part of the mountain is extremely boggy with burn crossings. The ascent is pathless, steep and wet underfoot. The ridge itself gives pleasant walking; minor scrambling on the tors.

Public Transport

None to start, nearest bus stop, Tongue.

Start

Car parking area off start of track to Ribigil. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

Ben Loyal presents its finest features to the north - the classic view is from the Kyle of Tongue causeway - so the ascent is described from this side. Take the minor road south from Tongue, taking the turning for the lane to Ribigill. There is a parking area on the left side. Begin the walk by crossing the cattle grid and continuing along the lane. Keeping left at two junctions, pass the farm buildings to follow a stony track. The track heads directly for Ben Loyal, passing through a gate. Follow the fence until the track forks; bear left here. Soon the track climbs gently and then crosses a small burn. After another gate the track narrows to a boggy path, continuing southwards - aiming to the right of the isolated building at Cunside.

Stage 2

Cross the Allt Lon Malmsgaig at the ford; the footbridge marked on older Ordnance Survey maps does not exist and the crossing can be tricky or even impossible when in spate. Keep well to the right of the house and enclosure and follow an initially clear path, although boggy, heading towards the Bealach Clais nan Ceap. The path can be very soggy underfoot. The rocky summit of Sgòr Chaonasaid looms above.

Stage 3

Once the gradient eases a little leave the path and bear southwest up the steep slope of grass and heather, aiming left of the rocky peaks of Sgòr Chaonasaid. There are some traces of a path but these often seem to lead too far east. Looking back the view over Tongue and the Kyle are superb.

Stage 4

After a steep pull the ridge is finally reached. The summit of Sgòr Chaonasaid can be visited by a detour to the right; a path climbs round the west side and from there you can either scramble up the rocks of the highest peak, or instead aim for the most northerly point for its open views. Now head south along the ridge.

Stage 5

The highest summit on Ben Loyal is the blocky granite tor of An Caisteal at 764m. Aim for the west side, from where a path makes the ascent avoiding most of the rock. The views looking back northwards over Sgòr Chaonasaid are superb.

Stage 6

The top is marked by a trig point, and sensational views over much of the far north. Retrace your steps back down from the tor.

Stage 7

From here it is possible to extend the walk from that described here by visiting more of the lesser summits. Beinn Bheag to the south requires only a short and easy detour to its top at 744m. From here it is possible to continue - mostly downhill - to the more dramatic summit of Sgòr a Cheirich. This gives views to the furthest peak - Càrn an Tionail - but reaching this means losing and reascending a great deal of height. The easiest return from any of these further peaks is still to retrace steps, so consider how long this will take before heading too far.

Stage 8

Now retrace your route of ascent, with fabulous views of the Kyle of Tongue ahead for most of the way. On the way down you may well see wreckage of a plane which crashed in the summer of 1943. The downed aircraft was apparently a Handley-Page Hampden bomber on a mission to search for another aircraft reported missing from a flight from Wick to collect weather information. The aircraft was doing about 150 mph when it crashed into the mountainside. Amazingly one man survived and was rescued by a shepherd and local doctor who set out from Ribigill.

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