John o'Groats Trail: Brora to Helmsdale

The seventh stage of the John o'Groats Trail heads along the superb golden sands from Brora before continuing alongside the railway and eventually climbing to Portgower (B&B) and then descending farmland and minor roads to Helmsdale (all services). Livestock in fields, at least one river crossing requires wading. Some limited waymarking, white paint on posts.

Terrain

Narrow sections on railway embankment are stony and narrow (easier walking on the beach at low tide), overgrown vegetation and long grass make the going difficult in places, Loth Burn requires wading (could be impassable in spate conditions).

Public Transport

Brora and Helmsdale are both served and linked by bus and train.

Start

Centre of Brora, next to Co-op supermarket. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

From the Co-op in the centre of Brora turn right onto the A9 and cross the bridge over the river. Turn right onto Golf Road and follow this past the Royal Marine Hotel. After the road bends left turn off into the golf club/beach car park and go through the kissing gate on the right and take the steps down towards the river. Follow a faint coastal path towards the sea which soon turns north. You can either continue following the path along the edge of the golf course or at lower tides walk on the sandy beach. At a couple of points you will have to head inland to cross small burns on bridges on the golf course path.

Stage 2

After the golf course there is a burn which can usually be crossed on pebble stepping stones or at low tide near the sea where it should be shallower. The next section is hemmed in between the railway and the shore, at low tide it may be possible to continue on the pebbles otherwise there is a narrow, uneven path alongside the railway fence, either way the going is a little difficult underfoot. At a stone bridge it is necessary to cross the burn on stepping stones althrough a wade may be necessary if the water level is high. Soon afterwards a gate leads into a field, cross this on sheep tracks keeping straight ahead.

Stage 3

Stay on the inland side of the fence (look for the white waymarkers on fence posts) and after passing an old fishing hut a burn is reached which is usually easily crossed. Continue through the field, heading through a gateway and following a sometimes-muddy track to a set of double farm gates. Go through these and continue on the track as it heads inland through a fence, climbing slightly to stay on the left of some small dunes. At the end of the fenced field go over the stile and continue around the coast on sometimes very overgrown ground looking out for the white waymarkers (at low tide it is possible to follow the pebbly then sandy shore instead). There is a very short section on top of a narrow seawall next to the railway, at all but very high tide it should be possible to bypass this on the beach. After this go through a farm gate into a field and continue ahead on a grassy path.

Stage 4

Keep the fence on your right as the ground gets more tussocky underfoot. Aim for the seaward side of the enclosure, soon the railway bridge over the Loth Burn will come into view on the left. Climb the stile at the right hand field corner and find the shallowest place to cross the Loth Burn, it is necessary to wade, do not attempt it if the water level is too high. After crossing go straight ahead aiming for a footpath up through the dunes there are usually a few caravans visible here. Follow the grassy track to the right which passes a concrete lookout and then runs through a caravan and campsite, keep right at the two track junctions. After a small headland pass the last caravan on a path on the right past the stone wall and over a stile in the fence.

Stage 5

Continue ahead on the tussocky ground (at low tide it might be easier to walk on the sand) until a waymarker at the Kilmote Burn which can usually be crossed without wading. On the far side continue through the grass and alongside (still on the sea side of) the railway for about four more km, ignoring two level crossings. Cross two bridges over the Westgarty and Midgarty burns. Finally come to a private level crossing with walkers' stiles over the railway fences. Cross the railway and ascend a track across the hillside. At a junction, turn left and follow the track to the village of Portgower.

Stage 6

Alternative rough shore route to Helmsdale: You can continue past the private level crossing, keeping to the sea side of the railway. This is rough going, often on boulder beach, and should not be attempted in bad weather due to the proximity to the sea. In good conditions, you eventually round a headland and pass under the A9 bridge. A better path forms and leads up to the old Helmsdale bridge. Turn right over the bridge to the roundabout in front of the old Helmsdale Hotel. Turn right here and walk a few minutes to the day’s end.

Stage 7

Back with the main route: Turn right on the tarmac road, then walk past the houses of Portgower ignoring the first turn up to the A9 on the left (there is a B&B/tearoom 0.5km on the A9 heading south from here), instead taking the road to the left at the end to reach the A9. Turn right along the A9, then cross with care to head up a lane on the opposite side immediately next to the rockfall / z-bend sign. This initially tarmac lane climbs steeply, ending at a footpath sign for 'Gartymore'.

Stage 8

Continue on the rough and muddy track which descends to cross a bridge over a burn (usually livestock here). On the far side follow the track uphill to the right, soon passing through a gate. From here keep to a faint path which bears right and passes to the right of a ruined house, before heading up left to gain its former entrance track.

Stage 9

Turn right along this, following it until it reaches a larger track. Turn right downhill here, soon crossing a bridge, and then turn left when a tarmac road is reached. At a crossroads keep straight ahead, now with good views of Helmsdale - the end of the stage. The road leads downhill towards the village; as it nears the A9 you can head to the right down steps to reach the A9 pavement. Turn left along the pavement and follow the A9 over the railway and then the river to reach Helmsdale.

Next stage: Helmsdale to Berriedale

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