John o'Groats Trail: Brora to Helmsdale

Summary

The seventh stage of the John o'Groats Trail heads along the superb golden sands from Brora before continuing between the coast and the railway and eventually climbing to Portgower (B&B), then descending through farmland on minor roads to Helmsdale (all services). Livestock in fields, one river crossing may require wading. Mostly waymarked.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

3.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Short sections next to fenced railway are stony and narrow (easier walking on the beach at low tide), overgrown vegetation and long grass make the going difficult in places, Loth Burn sometimes requires wading (could be impassable in spate conditions).

Public Transport

Brora and Helmsdale are both served and linked by bus and train.

Start

Centre of Brora, next to Co-op supermarket. Open in Google Maps.

Hillwalking in Winter

Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. All route descriptions and difficulties given here are for summer conditions. See our Winter Skills page for basic information on the essential skills, techniques and knowledge needed for winter hillwalking.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 20.5km / 12.75 miles
Time (summer conditions): 5.5 - 6.5 hours
Ascent: 200m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NC906039

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (2)

Stage 1

From the car park and Co-op in the centre of Brora turn right onto the A9 and cross the bridge over the river. Turn right onto Golf Road and follow this past the Royal Marine Hotel. When the road bends left turn off into the golf club/beach car park and go through the kissing gate on the right and take the steps down towards the river. Follow a faint coastal path towards the sea which soon turns north. You can either continue following the path along the edge of the golf course or at lower tides walk on the sandy beach. At a couple of points you will have to head inland to cross small burns on bridges on the golf course path. Keep away from the fenced areas to protect nesting terns and keep dogs under tight control.

Stage 2

After the golf course there is a burn which can usually be crossed on stepping stones, continue on the gabions and then keep on the seaward side of the fence. The next section is hemmed in between the railway and the shore, at low tide it may be possible to continue on the pebbles otherwise there is a narrow, uneven path alongside the railway fence, either way the going is a little difficult underfoot. Cross the footbridge over a burn next to the stone railway bridge. Soon afterwards a gate leads into a field, cross this keeping straight ahead.

Stage 3

Stay on the inland side of the fence (look for the white waymarkers on fence posts) and after passing an old fishing hut a burn is reached which is usually easily crossed. Continue through the field, heading through a gateway and following a sometimes-muddy track to a set of double farm gates (often open). Continue on the track as it heads inland through a fence, climbing slightly to stay on the left of some small dunes. At the end of the fenced field go over the stile and continue around the coast on sometimes very overgrown ground looking out for the white waymarkers (at low tide it is easier to follow the pebbly then sandy shore instead). There is a very short section on top of a narrow seawall next to the railway, at all but very high tide it should be possible to bypass this on the beach. After this go through a farm gate into a field and continue ahead on a grassy path.

Stage 4

Keep the fence on your right as the ground gets more tussocky underfoot. Aim for the seaward side of the enclosure and when the cleft of the Loth Burn comes into view aim inland to the left hand corner of the field. Head up through the bracken towards the railway bridge, climb the wooden fence and descend to the water and find the easiest place to cross. It may be necessary to wade; at low tide it can be easier near the sea, use the stile over the fence at the corner of the field near the sea. [If too deep, retrace your steps for 1km to a private level crossing and then head up to the A9 and head along the verge - the route can be regained via Crackaig Farm.] After crossing head back to the grassy ground from the railway bridge and turn left aiming for a footpath up through the dunes with a few caravans visible beyond. Follow the grassy track to the right which passes a concrete lookout and then runs through a caravan and campsite, keep right at the two track junctions. After a small headland pass the last caravan on a path just to the right past the stone wall and over a stile in the fence.

Stage 5

Continue ahead on the tussocky ground (at low tide it might be easier to walk on the sand) eventually crossing a footbridge over the Kilmote Burn. On the far side continue through the grass and alongside the seaward side of the railway for about 4km, ignoring two level crossings. Cross two bridges over the Westgarty and Midgarty burns. Finally come to 3rd private level crossing with no waymarkers but trees and a visible green lane rising to the right behind it. Cross the railway here and ascend the grassy track up the hillside. At a junction, turn left and follow the track to the village of Portgower.

Stage 6

There is an alternative rough shore route to Helmsdale which is shorter with less climbing but misses some views and cannot be completed at high tide or with very rough seas. To take this alternative, continue past the private level crossing, keeping to the sea side of the railway. Further on continue on the boulder beach and eventually round a headland and pass under the A9 bridge. A better path forms and leads up to the old Helmsdale bridge. Turn right over the bridge to the roundabout in front of the old Helmsdale Hotel. Turn right here and walk a few minutes to the day's end.

Stage 7

Back with the main route: Turn right on the tarmac road at the houses, and through Portgower ignoring the first turn up to the A9 on the left (there is a B&B/tearoom 0.5km on the A9 heading south from here), instead taking the road to the left at the end of the houses to reach the A9. Turn right along the A9, and after Braehead Terrace cross the A9 and head up the lane on the far side immediately next to the rockfall / z-bend sign. This initially tarmac lane climbs steeply, ending at a footpath sign for 'Gartymore'.

Stage 8

Continue on the rough track which descends to cross a bridge over a burn (usually livestock here). On the far side follow the track uphill to the right, soon passing through a gate. From here keep to the path which bears right and passes to the right of a ruined house, before heading up left and through a gate to gain its former entrance track.

Stage 9

Turn right along this, following it until it reaches a larger track. Turn right downhill here, soon crossing a bridge, and then turn left when a tarmac road is reached. At a crossroads keep straight ahead, now with good views of Helmsdale - the end of the stage. The road leads downhill towards the village; as it nears the A9 turn right down steps to reach the A9. Turn left along the pavement and follow the A9 over the railway and then the river to reach Helmsdale.

Next stage: Helmsdale to Berriedale

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