John o'Groats Trail: Helmsdale to Berriedale

Summary

The eighth stage of the John o'Groats Trail is the highest part of the route, crossing moorland above the coastal cliffs. It passes a beautifully excavated broch and passes the ruins of Badbea - a village in an exposed location to which folk were driven after being cleared from more fertile ground inland. It ends at the half way point of the trail, picturesque but tiny Berriedale.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Rough coastal walking, couple of boggy sections, path unclear at times.

Getting there

Start

Helmsdale harbour.

Public Transport

Bus and train at Helmsdale, bus at Berriedale.

Start Grid Ref

ND028153

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Services

Helmsdale has a shop, cafe and restaurant as well as hotel, B&B and hostel accommodation. At Berriedale the River Bothy cafe is on the other side of the A9, and the Halfway House hostel is 1.75km north just off route. There is also a bus stop or a lift could be arranged to a nearby B&B - perhaps taking a two night stay at Helmsdale or Dunbeath.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 14.5km / 9 miles
Time: 6 - 7 hours
Ascent: 550m (Profile)

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Walk Description

User reports (4)

Stage 1

Walk down to the harbour at Helmsdale and follow Shore Street east, soon passing an old salmon netting station. Before reaching the bungalow at the very end of the road turn right onto a marked path to pass it on the seaward side. Continue along the grassy path by the shoreline and after rounding the headland of Sròn a' Chrochair the high cliffs of the route ahead come into view. Head round the back of the bay at Navidale and at the far side turn left to head uphill from an old ruin and sign.

Stage 2

At the top of the sloping path there is a great view back across the bay. Turn sharp right along a grassy path (do not go straight on towards the gate and Navidale Farm). Follow the path on the seaward side of the stone wall and soon go through a gate and continue next to the wall. Go through a farm gate on the left (waymarker) and following the faint grassy track as it crosses the grazing land, descending to cross a dip and then curving back right. Keep following the waymarkers, aiming towards a concrete observation post on the cliff ahead.

Stage 3

Pass this and continue to reach a stile. The route now follows the seaward side of the fence, with superb views down to the shore far below. The path cuts ineland to cross a small ravine filled with gorse. Pass through the kissing gate at the bottom and then follow the markers as the path rises between gorse bushes and regenerating native woodland. An old track, overgrown with gorse is reached; bear right to follow this briefly, eventually reaching a second concrete observation post. From here you can see the Ord of Caithness, a large band of granite culminating in Ord Point and the grassy Green Table - the site of an ancient fort.

Stage 4

Follow the path along the coast which is faint in places soon heading inland into a ravine to cross Ord burn well beyond the waterfall. The overgrown path continues up the far side of the burn for a few paces before heading back on itself to climb diagonally uphill back towards the coast. Soon there's a good view of the Green Table below. The path passes through a gap in a fence and then heads inland at another gentle ravine before bearing right to climb through the heather and gorse. There's a fence to cross with a marker but no stile (no barbed wire so easily crossed). The route then follows the line of an old track to climb, passing through a kissing gate. Soon the old track - which is very boggy in places and becomes overgrown with heather - inland towards the A9, with power lines visible and Morven and other hills of Caithness in the distance.

Stage 5

Keep straight ahead, crossing Allt a' Bhurg, until you meet a very well-made footpath. Turn right along this, ignoring a stile off left and soon reaching the very fine remains of Ousdale Broch. Pass the broch, now on an unmade path, to pass a marker (in summer hidden in bracken) and stile overlooking Ousdale. From here many wooden steps aid the very steep descent down to the burn. Cross the footbridge and bear right, cross a stile and then begin a diagonal ascent of the grass slopes on the other side of the burn. The route comes alongside a fence - follow this to the left. Higher up there's a gate, pass through this.

Stage 6

After some gorse bushes there's a faint path and occasional marker posts. The route passes a stone wall and leads along another stretch of fence. before a grand view opens along the coast. The next section is unclear in places but leads through the scattered ruins of Badbea - aim to pass just to the right of the ruins, traversing the slope. Pass through a gate and keep above any fencelines. You should see the monument at Badbea; avoid any wet ground and continue until this is reached. Tenants of inland crofts were first settled here at Badbea in 1792 having been evicted from their land to make way for more profitable sheep. Life at Badbea would have been harsh and exposed to the elements, many residents later emigrated in search of a better life and the memorial commemorates many of them.

Stage 7

From the monument follow the marked path through the heather, passing some more ruined houses. Pass through a gap in the massive stone wall which separated the villagers from the sheep grazing land above. Turn right along the far side of the wall to follow it; there are a few very boggy patches which are crossed by wooden walkways. Cross a stile over a fence to keep straight ahead into a field. Towards the far end of the field bear right to cross a stile next to a metal farm gate in the wall. From here a grassy track is followed, providing easy walking with good views back along the coast and to the Caithness hills inland.

Stage 8

Follow the track when it swings inland before the coast starts to descend to Berriedale. Go through the farm gate in a stone wall and leave the track a very short distance beyond at a waymarker. A fainter grassy track is picked up which soon reaches a gate, with a great view over the Berriedale Braes on the A9 in the distance. Go through the gate and descend the field aiming diagonally towards the sea to reach a stile over the fence at the opposite corner of the field. Cross this and aim for the first of two monuments which actually serve as navigation aids for the tiny harbour at Berriedale.

Stage 9

Continue to the second monument further down the hill but do not go through the pedestrian gate, instead turning left until a grassy ridgeline provides a very pleasant descent (there's a path down the left side of it). Follow this down to the trees, then bear left to cross a stile with the A9 very close. This emerges on a track and then a tarmac lane - bear left to reach the A9. Turn right very briefly, then take the next tarmac lane on the right to reach the cottages of Berriedale and begin the next stage, or keep ahead another minute along the A9 to find the cafe off the land side of the road.

Next stage: Berriedale to Dunbeath

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