Morven and Maiden Pap

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Morven - the highest summit in Caithness - is a hill of great character, rising in isolation as a majestic conical peak. This route makes the ascent before continuing over the moors to reach Maiden Pap, which is something of a Morven in miniature, though even steeper. The whole round - which also passes the tors of Smean - makes for a classic though boggy outing.

Terrain

Steep hills rising above boggy moorland; much of the route is pathless.

Public Transport

None.

Start

Phone box at end of public road just beyond Braemore. Map and directions.

Hillwalking in Winter

Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. All route descriptions and difficulties given here are for summer conditions. See our Winter Essentials page for basic information on the skills, techniques and knowledge needed for winter hillwalking.

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Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

Walk Statistics

Distance: 16.75km / 10.5 miles
Time (summer conditions): 7 - 8 hours
Ascent: 942m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: ND073304

Summits Climbed

Graham: Morven
Sub 2000: Smean
Sub 2000: Maiden Pap

Maps / GPS

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Accommodation

Walk Description

Stage 1

There is a small parking area - suitable for around 3 cars - near the phone box at the end of the public road to Braemore. Begin the walk by crossing the old stone bridge and following the gravelled track to the right. Don't head through the gate (to Braemore Lodge), instead keeping on the track to the left. Soon the track reaches the neatly-kept estate buildings and house at Braeval - note the old graveyard to the right. There are great views towards Maiden Pap.

Stage 2

The track leads through a gate and passes through woodland before the landscape takes on an open aspect. The great cone of Morven - made more distinctive by the rocky features on its upper slopes - soon replaces the Pap as the dominating feature in the landscape. The track ends near the old cottage at Corrichoich.

Stage 3

From here the going becomes boggy. There is a rough ATV track continuing west at first, keeping to the right of a plantation, but this peters out further on and the going becomes heavy in places; aim for the bealach between Carn Mor and Morven. From here the climb up is foreshortened though still daunting; luckily there is a trace of a path for the first section up steep heather.

Stage 4

The views back become increasingly spectacular as height is gained. Higher up the slope becomes stony with scattered conglomerate rocks. Another sharp pull leads up to a false summit - a rocky tor which can be scrambled over or bypassed through a gap in the centre. Descend slightly for the final more gradual rise to the true summit. The tiny cairn is a spectacular viewpoint extending from Ben Hope round the northern and northeastern coastlines, to as far away as the Cairngorms in clear conditions. The view is given great depth by the steepness of Morven's slopes.

Stage 5

Return back down the very steep slopes to the bealach. Now continue up the heathery, pathless and somewhat wet slopes opposite. You can either visit the mini-peak of Carn Mor or bypass it to the right en route for the huge tor that forms the summit of Smean.

Stage 6

The tor looks unassailable at first, but the highest point can in fact be reached quite easily from a gully on the northern side. Descend from the tor and then NNE and finally NE - down steep slopes at times - to reach the flat moorland that leads out towards the improbable outline of the Maiden Pap.

Stage 7

The moorland becomes very boggy underfoot for a kilometre or so until the ground begins to firm up on the final approach to the Pap. The slopes leading up this are even steeper - though shorter - than the pull of Morven. The summit crags can either by passed to the right or breached through a gap to reach the tiny, cairnless summit, which casts a triangular shadow across the moor on fine days.

Stage 8

Descend east a few paces from the summit on a faint path towards a tor. From here it is possible to make an extremely steep descent to the north, with a faint path aiding the way though great care is needed. Once down onto the heather moorland pass to the right of the plantation to regain the outward track. Turn right here to return to the start.

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