John o'Groats Trail: Lybster to Whaligoe

Summary

Stunning coastal scenery dominates the eleventh stage of the John o'Groats trail as it passes sea stacks, waterfalls, numerous geos and the ancient Clyth Harbour before reaching the famous Whaligoe steps. There are alot of fences and this part of the John o' Groats trail remains quite rough going.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Rough terrain with livestock, and many fences mostly with stiles.

Hillwalking in Winter

Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. All route descriptions and difficulties given here are for summer conditions. See our Winter Skills page for basic information on the essential skills, techniques and knowledge needed for winter hillwalking.

Getting there

Start

Seaward end of Main Street, Lybster.

Public Transport

Lybster and Whaligoe are both served by bus.

Start Grid Ref

ND247354

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Services

Grocery shop, hotels and B&B accommodation at Lybster. There are currenltly no facilites at the end of the stage at Whaligoe; the nearest B&B is at Thrumster. You could catch a bus to Wick, or arrange for your B&B for the previous or following night to pick you up and drop you off so you can have a two night stay.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 12km / 7.5 miles
Time (summer conditions): 5 - 6 hours
Ascent: 400m (Profile)

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Walk Description

User reports (3)

Stage 1

From the shop on Lybster's Main Street continue towards the sea and follow the road as it curves to the left into South End. At the end take a the path that continues towards the coast, crossing over a stile to reach a bench with great views of the sea stack and skerries below. From here take an old path that descends steeply - with many grassy steps - towards the shore, and then climbs up the other side - first diagonally right, then left, to reach a stile. Go up through the field, keeping to the right near the fence. There are several stiles to cross to stay on the landward, and later the seaward side of the fence.

Stage 2

Pass around the back of the inlet at the Clash of Mavesy; the ruins of a tall building can be seen down on the shingle beach from the far side. Continue outside the fence. At one post there's a viewpoint sign indicating a detour onto White Head, whilst the route itself continues until the Occumster Burn is seen below. Here the path cuts inland, continuing until a footbridge is reached above the attractive upper waterfall; once over the bridge, continue back toward the sea. The route crosses a stile over an old wall as it returns to the coastline.

Stage 3

There are some impressive sea stacks and a natural arch on this section. After rounding the back of Roy Geo there's a particularly impressive detatched stack. Cross a footbridge and stile where the route returns to the landward side of the fence, before the fences relent the landscape becomes open. Soon Clyth Harbour is reached with the remains of a large fishing station visible below. This was part of the herring fishing industry which boomed in the 19th century. A grassy trod on the far side leads back towards the sea, crossing a stile to again reach the seaward side of a fence. The red and white striped Clyth Lighthouse next comes into view.

Stage 4

The lighthouse is privately owned so keep to the inland side of it, crossing another fence before reaching the fenced driveway for the lighthouse. Turn right down the driveway and cross a low fence to resume walking outside the clifftop fence. After a couple fields, a stile is there to let you in the field to go safely round Line Geo, then go back out on another stile to continue the walk.

Stage 5

Eventually the very impressive Stack of Mid-Clyth is reached, with a sea tunnel right through it. Continue outside the fences until you cross the neck of Halberry Head across dilapidated fences. Just after this, the cliff path is exposed and some may prefer to walk inside the fence for a distance.

Stage 6

Further on, cross a stile and then a bridge over the burn before Hanni Geo. Stay outside the next fenced field if there are cattle present (there may be a bull). Then cross another bridge and another stile to continue inside the next field. Follow the clifftop fence to a stile to go out and explore the muddy steps down into the Haven, or just follow the trail as it cuts across the field toward the top of Long Gote to find stiles to continue. Follow a path that is cut through the gorse along the fence line and continue left into a clearing. Here you are close to the A99 with two churches (one ruined) over the road.

Stage 7

Continue across the croftland using a gate below the ruined church and then a second gate. Aim ahead across the field to find a stile over the fence and pass Whale Geo. From here you can see the large stone house at Whaligoe. You can keep by the coastal fence to access a great viewing spot overlooking the remarkable Whaligoe Steps, an amazing feat of engineering. Over 330 stone steps lead down to what was once a thriving fishing port built in the mid 18th century. Fish (primarily herring but also haddock, ling and cod) were landed here, gutted and carried up the steps in creels by a small army of women and taken to market by foot in Wick. There was a cooperage at Whaligoe and barrels of salted herring were packed onto boats and exported from here. Follow the fence inland until a stile gives access to a path that leads to the stone house. The Whaligoe Steps can be reached to the right, whereas the walk (and car park for the A9) are to the left.

Next stage: Whaligoe to Wick

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