Explore the amazing Smoo Cave, the largest sea-cave in Britain, before heading inland onto the moors of the hinterland via a loop on old tracks.
Bog Factor
Steps to Smoo Cave; gravel track and roadside pavement.
Smoo Cave car park.
Bus service to Durness and Lairg, stops near Smoo Cave car park.
NC418671
Start from the car park for Smoo Cave, east of Durness, just past the Youth Hostel, where there are toilets and a picnic area. The parking is often full in high season; there's a public layby a short distance along the road to the east. To begin the walk, take the steps down from behind the toilet block that descend into the deep geo or sea inlet - Geodha Smoo.
Turn right to cross a walkway and visit Smoo Cave. The cave itself is formed from limestone and the first chamber measures 60 metres by 40 metres and is 15 metres high, making it Britain's biggest sea cave. The second chamber is accessible on a a wooden walkway and is smaller but still impressive. Here the Allt Smoo falls 25 metres into the cave through a opening in the ceiling - this forms an impressive blow hole during stormy seas.
A third chamber is only accessible by taking an organised trip. Once you have explored the cave take the long sloping path up the other side, with great views back of the cave entrance. At the top the route continues to the right, but it's worth detouring to the left first to walk along the clifftop of this side of the geo to where it meets the sea - with views to Whiten Head to the east. Rertrace your steps and now follow the path on this side of the geo right to the road, ignoring the small path which returns to the car park over the top of the cave. At the road turn left and cross the road to head uphill on the pavement.
Keep following the road, passing the entrance to the landfill site on the right and the road which leads to the Smoo Cave Hotel on the left. Soon take a track on the right signed for Bhlar Duibhe, passing a house on the left. Go through the gate and keep following the track as it heads inland over heather moorland.
The rough track climbs gently over landscape typical of this part of Sutherland, wide moorlands interspersed with steep mountains and watery lochans. To the right Loch Meadaidh can be seen. When the track reaches a junction our route turns sharp right (waymarker post) - the left track leads to the Bealach Dubh south of Beinn Ceannabeinne. Instead follow the track slightly downhill following a burn, and crossing it on stones.
Soon the Allt Smoo is crossed on stepping stones (may be a problem in spate) and the track from Loch Meadaidh is reached beyond. Turn right here and follow this track until a gate leads to a surfaced road. Continue straight ahead until the main road is reached. Turn right here to follow the pavement past the Community Hall and the short distance back to the Smoo Cave car park.
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