An Teallach, Dundonnell

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This fabled mountain is perhaps the most impressive in Britain, and gives a day of drama and views that will live in the memory forever. The full traverse is a magnificent scramble, whilst the two Munros can be reached by an easier there-and-back route.

Terrain

Steep rocky mountain terrain (boggy lower down). The full traverse of the ridge involves much scrambling with great exposure; this can be made easier by following bypass paths or alternatively just climbing the main peaks.

Public Transport

Westerbus service from Inverness to Dundonnell 3 times a week, but a 2 night stay would be needed to do the walk.

Start

Layby on A832, Dundonnell. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

Park in the large layby off the A832 around 250 metres to the east of the Dundonnell Hotel. The walk begins a little further along the road (heading away from the Hotel), turning off onto a path to the right just before the pair of bungalows to pass behind them up the hillside. The path, which is a little boggy in places, zig-zags to and fro as it climbs up onto the ridge of Meall Garbh. Try to keep to this old path up this ridge rather than following a newer path round to the Allt a Mhuillin, which is a boggier route. There are fine views along the rocky ridge of Meall Garbh; beyond the path contours round the smoothly-contoured slopes at the head of the valley, before beginning to climb once more towards Sròn a Choire. There are great views to the north over towards the Summer Isles.

Stage 2

Beyond Sròn a Choire the route climbs slightly to reach a col which is almost paved with flat sandstone slabs. From here, climb steeply up the scree and boulder ridge to the south. This ridge narrows higher up and eventually a short climb to the left leads to the trig point on the summit of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill. This is the highest of An Teallach's two Munros at 1062 metres. It has extensive views in all directions but all eyes will be pointing southwest, where a truly stupendous panorama of Sgùrr Fiona and the Corrag Buidhe pinnacles make an amazing backdrop to the void of Coire Toll an Lochain. There is no more impressive sight amongst Scottish mountains.

Stage 3

Follow the rocky ridge southwest, with a huge drop on the left. The ridge descends to a bealach before rising intimidatingly steeply towards Sgùrr Fiona. This ridge can either be followed by scrambling up it directly near the corrie edge, or some walkers have followed a scree path across the northern face of Sgùrr Fiona to instead reach its summit up its rocky but easier northwest ridge. Either way, the cairn on this second Munro at 1060 will be reached. This is a finer summit than Bidein a Ghlas Thuill but doesn't share that peak's sudden drama; its view along Corrag Buidhe is very impressive nonetheless. A decision must now be taken whether to return by the route of ascent (by far the easier option), or to tackle to pinnacled ridge ahead. To traverse the pinnacles themselves is a tough scramble but there are easier (though exposed) bypass paths on the right hand side of the ridge.

Stage 4

If looking for a bypass path, it might be worth heading down the northwest ridge for a short distance initially, looking for a clear path leading round to the left, which avoids the pinnacles and rejoins the ridge below Corrag Buidhe. If continuing directly along the ridge, the scramble on bare sandstone leads first onto Lord Berkeley's Seat, a fearsome-looking pinnacle which actually overhangs Coire Toll an Lochain. Lord Berkeley is supposed to have sat on the top with his legs dangling over the edge whilst he smoked a pipe. This is not recommended! Beyond the scramble takes in the multiple pinnacles of Corrag Buidhe. The final descent off Corrag Buidhe is a graded rock climb and scene of several fatal accidents; it is necessary to head back a little and look for a way down to the bypass path which is on the right hand side of the ridge.

Photo: Nigel Brown

Stage 5

Beyond Corrag Buidhe Buttress, the scrambling difficulties are left behind. The ridge climbs up to Stob Gadha Gobhlach, with a good retrospective view of Corrag Buidhe. Descend to another bealach before climbing once more to the final peak of Sàil Liath. From Sàil Liath a fairly broad ridge descends southeast at first; as this begins to to steepen head down the rough slope to the east. Aim to the south of the small Lochan na Brathan and reach the excellent stalkers path from Corrie Hallie to Shenavall a short distance beyond.

Photo: Doogz

Stage 6

Turn left along this path which undulates before joining a vehicle track; keep left here. The vehicle track now leads all the way back to the A832. This is some fine woodland in Gleann Chaorach; at one point the track fords the stream in this glen. If the water is high there is an alternative footbridge which can be reached with muddy boots. Just over two kilometres further on the track joins the A832 at Corrie Hallie. This is parking here, but if you have left your car at the start of the walk in Dundonnell you have another three kilometres or more of road walking to do - turn left along the road.

Photo: Graham Lewis

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