This walk takes in Lismore's two best-known historical features on a circular route from Achnacroish. There's a cafe at half-way.
Bog Factor
First section of path can be boggy and the next to the broch is indistinct. Afterward the walk follows minor roads and tracks.
Achnacroish (Pier for ferry from Oban).
Achnacroish is served by car ferries from Oban.
NM852409
Heading up from the pier in Achnacroish, turn right along a track that runs in front of a row of houses. It seems to end at a garden but the path actually goes through the gate and past the front of the cottages, bearing right at the far end to reach a kissing gate in the corner of the last garden. This is the start of a section of grassy coastal path; it has superb views over to the mountains on the mainland but is boggy underfoot at times.
Soon the path reaches a huge cross. This is a memorial to Waverley Arthur Cameron, the son of the man who founded the Oban Times. Waverley's yacht foundered off the coast nearby and he was drowned. Go through the gate to reach the memorial and then follow the path, crossing a small stream and eventually passing just above a white cottage on the coast. Bear left beyond the cottage; the ruin on the right is a former Flax Mill. Continue up to gain the end of a tarmac road beside a house. Go through the gate to the right of the house.
Pass below the house, passing to the left of a barn; a bridge over the burn has rotten away, but it can usually be stepped over to the left. Climb to the grassy gap on the low ridge ahead, then climb up onto the grassy ridge that runs above the sea. The route continues along this escarpment, with a fence on your right. At a wall bear right to reach a stile and then continue along the ridge, eventually descending to grassy pastures. Keep ahead parallel to the coast, crossing a drystone wall with the aid of a metal stile.
Now keep ahead, aiming up the hill to the prominent ruin of Castle Tirefour. This is an iron-age broch which dates back 2,000 years; once the walls would have been 15 metres high as well as 3 metres thick. The spectacular setting adds greatly it its appeal. From the broch descend continue along the high ground, picking up a grassy track. This swings left at a fence to reach a gate, passes through and then heads towards a cottage. Pass through another gate below this and join the tarmac road, heading to the right along it. The road climbs uphill and reaches a t-junction after another 500m.
Turn right along the road and follow it as it heads to Baileouchdarach and then climbs uphill, passing through two gates. When it reaches a t-junction with the 'main' island road, turn left. After around a kilometre it passes Lismore Parish Church, sometimes dubbed the Cathedral of the Isles. It is built on the site of the original, much larger cathedral of St Moluag which was destroyed during the reformation. After passing a particularly fine house (complete with peacock) look out for a track on the right. Follow this track as it curves right (ignoring a grassy track ahead), and then turn left (sign) at the next junction. The track swings right again after a short distance, and eventually descends with Castle Coeffin visible ahead.
Follow it downhill, keeping left through a gate to head to the castle. Built in the 13th century by Clan MacDougall, it has a fine position, with a view along the coast to distant Achandun Castle. After enjoying the ruins, return up the track and retrace your steps all the way back to the 'main' tarmac road. Turn right here and follow the road to a junction with a left turn signed for 'Balnagowan'.
The walk goes left down this road, but many walkers will want to make the short detour to visit the turf-roofed cafe and heritage centre visible ahead on the right. If you don't consume too many cakes, return and head down the Balnagowan road. After passing a loch the route rejoins the outward one at Balnagowan; go right on the path at the end to retrace your steps along the coastal route back to Achnacroish.
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