The Lairig an Laoigh, like the Lairig Ghru, links Speyside with Deeside, but this more easterly pass is far less known than its higher neighbour. The mountain scenery is perhaps slightly less dramatic but it provides a fine through-walk with pinewoods, bleak moorlands, river crossings. The two routes can be combined, with a wild-camp or stay in a bothy, to make a magnificent circuit.
Summary
Fairly good path throughout. There are however some tricky river crossings (impassable in spate) and the route is very remote and far from help.
Terrain
NH987095
Grid ref
29km/18 miles
Distance
Grade
Safety warning: Hillwalking when there is snow or ice lying requires ice-axe, crampons and the ability to use them. Some featured routes can become technical ice climbs. Check out our Winter Skills information provided by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland.
Users'
rating
1. Park by the end of the minor road to Glenmore Lodge, and begin the walk by continuing along the track past the barrier. Keep straight ahead when another track goes off to the right. The forest on either side is Scots pine plantations at first, but further on becomes more natural with some magnificent old granny pines as well as birches and aspen. Further the track passes to the left of Lochan Uaine, which can be visited down steps for a closer look at its turquoise water reflecting the beautiful pines.
2. Continue along the track through the Ryvoan Pass. At a fork, take the right branch - signed for Braemar. The route now becomes a little stonier and the landscape more open, with sweeping views over the uppermost reaches of Abernethy Forest to the left. After a couple of kilometres the route reaches a footbridge over the River Nethy; cross this and continue on the well-constructed path that climbs the moorland ahead. There are increasingly extensive views over Abernethy Forest and lower Speyside. The constructed section of path ends but the route beyond is just as clear on the ground; when it forks, keep left (the right hand path is bound for Bynack More).
3. The Lairig soon reaches its highest point (though there are lots more climbs to come!) before descending gently across bleak terrain to cross the Uisge Dubh Poll a' Choin. Creag Mhor can now be seen ahead - a rather insignificant piece of moorland capped with a granite tor but dwarfed by the giant Beinn a'Bhuird behind it. Although the route is clear in good weather, any navigational errors in this area could become serious if one is drawn into the drainage system of the Water of Caiplich - which leads into as empty, remote and featureless an area as any in Scotland. The path rises again before descending to cross Glasath in the glen below. The great tors visible high on right are the Barns of Bynack, just below the summit of Bynack More.
4. There is a slight rise before the path passes Lochan a'Bhainne and then descends slowly to reach the refuge at the Fords of Avon. The wooden hut is encased within stonework to secure it against the fierce winter storms; it is dark and cramped inside and best left for emergencies. The route now crosses the Avon, which is already a substantial river. Even in a dry spell this is likely to require a wade; in times of spate it is quite impassable. Just beyond there is a second crossing of a tributary before the path climbs once more to another high point. This pass is the Lairig an Laoigh itself, though the route here is not quite so high as the crossing of the shoulder of Bynack More.
5. With a magnificent view ahead, the path now descends across the slopes on the east side of Glen Derry. The fast-flowing Glas Allt Mor provides yet another potentially problematic crossing before the path continues along the floor of the glen. As the beautiful Derry pinewoods are reached, keep to the east side of the burn where a new National Trust for Scotland path winds through the trees, climbing above the river and giving some superb views.
Photo: Jim Fox.
6. Eventually bear left onto a track past the derelict Derry Lodge. It soon leaves the trees behind to pass through an emptier section of Glen Lui, passing the site of some former townships. Turn right at a junction to cross a bridge over the Luibeg. After another 1.5km a path on the right heads through to the Linn of Dee car park and the end of the walk. Of course, you could always walk back to Speyside using the Lairig Ghru tomorrow!
Have you found an error or is any information wrong or missing?
Please let us know by using the error report form.
