Sgurr nan Gillean is perhaps the most famous of the Cuillin peaks - a popular route with a difficult scramble to the summit and fantastic views at all times.
Summary
The route to the ridge can be difficult to follow in mist. The scramble up the ridge to the summit is difficult and exposed. The nearby peak of Sgurr Beag provides an easier alternative for walkers who decide to omit Sgurr nan Gillean.
Terrain
NG484296
Grid ref
12km/7.5 miles
Distance
Grade
Lay-by at Sligachan on the Dunvegan road
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Read reports by: bigbertie canisp
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Buses from Portree, Broadford and Kyleakin - get off at Sligachan Hotel.
Open Traveline Scotland
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Pronunciation
and meaning
1. Take the Dunvegan road from Sligachan and park in the lay-by immediately on the right, taking care not to block the entrance to the Mountain Rescue post. The footpath begins on the opposite side of the road at the far end of the lay-by It soon leads to a plank bridge with handrail high over the river; cross this and continue on the now excellent footpath uphill. After a couple of kilometres take the wooden footbridge where the path branches left and follow the path as it continues uphill. The photo shows Sgurr nan Gillean from Sgurr a Basteir.
2. After about a kilometre the path levels off. A cairn indicates where another path heads off to the right; this leads to the start of the Pinnacle Ridge (rock climb). Instead follow the main path which slopes slightly downhill into Coire Riabhach. The path crosses the head of the corrie keeping well above Loch a Choire Riabhaich. There are great views of Marsco and Bla Bheinn across Glen Sligachan. At the far side the path zig zags up a slightly loose slope before flattening at a shoulder.
3. The path contours round into a second, hanging corrie. This corrie is ringed by crags; the route out heads up the obvious wide scree gully across the far side. After some distance up this gully the main scree slope heads up to the right. Instead of following this head up the boulders on the left hand slope towards a small cairn on the horizon. On reaching the cairn there is an indistinct route across the boulders heading uphill to the right. You should soon reach the bottom of a large rock slab with cairns marking a route along the bottom to the right. Don't follow these but keep left of the crag and follow a faint path with small cairns. This path becomes clearer as it zig zags up the scree slope before eventually bearing left onto the ridge.
4. The summit of Sgurr nan Gillean is now clearly visible up the ridge - appearing somewhat intimidating. Some walkers may need the reassurance of a rope on the upper sections; if you decide not to tackle it all is not lost, as you can follow the ridge down to the left and up to the neighbouring, easier summit of Sgurr Beag (the continuation onto sharp-pointed Sgurr na H-Uamba is best left to rock-climbers). If you do decide to tackle Sgurr nan Gillean, follow the ridge towards it, easily at first, keeping slightly to the left side to avoid any difficulties. There's an awkward step up out the back of a gully, and further on is a very steep section which can either be climbed fairly directly up the ridge, or on less steep but more exposed and less reliable sloping rocks out to the left. Above this, the ridge levels off, and narrows to a single slab shortly before the summit - this slab is well polished by shuffling bottoms!
Photo © canisp
5. Just beyond the narrow section is the airy summit of Sgurr nan Gillean. The view in all directions is fabulous; the drops around the summit are such that none of the supporting ridges can be seen, which gives the impression of floating in the air. The West Ridge, which leads towards Am Basteir, is extremely exposed and has a technical chimney lower down that usually requires an abseil - it should not be attempted except by experienced rock-climbers. The excitement of being at the summit is therefore tempered by the knowledge that the only way back down is by the route of ascent - which requires even more care in this direction.
Photo © canisp
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