This classic circuit is the finest walk on Bute; it also forms the first stage of the West Island Way. The walk features some beautiful coastal scenery, an atmospheric ruined chapel and many superb views.
Rough going. Approach to Glencallum Bay is rocky, some very boggy patches elsewhere. Steep ascents and descents.
Bus to Kilchattan Bay.
Kilchattan Bay.
The walk begins from Kilchattan Bay, an attractive shoreline village of imposing sandstone villas dating back to the days when steam ships made this a popular resort for Glasgow folk. It is possible to park either near the old jetty, or at the very end of the public road just before the turning area. Begin along the path that continues from the road-end; it runs just above the rocky shoreline. Pass through a small gate and continue straight ahead. The path soon heads through another gate as a rocky hill sweeps down to the shore ahead. The path passes below this, sticking to the shore; a signpost warns of 'very rough track ahead'.
Rounding the corner, the path climbs slightly to pass through a kissing gate next to a shallow cave or shelter. Soon a strange sandstone rock comes into view; the path curves round to pass beneath this wave-carved sculpture. There are good views offshore to Little Cumbrae, its volcanic landscape broken into rocky shelves, and further left to the more fertile and gentle Great Cumbrae, with the mainland visible beyond. Once past the rock the path goes through another kissing gate. A green signpost indicates a path going sharp right to Kelspoke, giving an alternative and much shorter return to Kilchattan Bay. Our walk continues along the coast ahead, with the path becoming increasingly rocky in places and soon passing beneath a rock slab.
Beyond this the little lighthouse on Rubh an Eun comes into view ahead, whilst the northern end of Arran also becomes visible, the conical shape of Holy Island just visible to its left. The lighthouse can easily be visited by a short detour to the left but the walk continues by bending right to reach Glencallum Bay.
The path becomes grassier as the bay is reached. The stone remains over to the right are the only reminder that this once was the site of an old inn, at the foot of Glencallum and its landscape of volcanic rocks. Head right round to the far end of the bay where a green marker post indicates where the path climbs to the right away from the shore, giving a great view back across the bay.
A short distance uphill the path swings left again, now well above the coastline, and following the marker posts. Soon there are great views ahead towards the Isle of Arran. The path now heads further inland, aiming for the lowest point of the miniature ridge ahead, where Loch na Leighe is revealed.
From here the path descends the slopes, aiming to the left of the loch to a marker post and gate, and then running just to the left of another of the tiny volcanic ridges. Further along the path climbs up to the right and crosses the ridge, descending the other side. As a fence comes into view ahead - with a farmhouse in the distance - follow the markers to mark a right turn. The path then swings left briefly towards the farmhouse - there is a signpost for St Blaine's and Suidhe Chatain. Before reaching the farmhouse the path bears right to join a track. Head to the right along this briefly before a signpost indicates where to leave it, turning left up a grassy bank and continuing by a fence. The path heads for the large trees and then bears right, following a drystone wall.
Keep the wall to your left and as St Blane's Chapel is approached cross the wall at a stile before passing through two gates. The ancient ruined chapel is built up on a grassy bank and access is gained at the far side. This was once the capital of Bute; the ruins date back to the twelfth century but enough remains to give a feel for the site. Look especially for the chevron carvings on the arch between the nave and the chancel. The setting, in a natural grassy hollow with fine trees and low rock walls, is very atmospheric. The walk continues from the top or north end and is marked by posts. Keep to the left of the boggy area of reeds in the next field to reach a stile. Cross the stile and then bear right across the next field to reach a track at another stile; head left along this grassy track.
When the track bends left to a gate, cross the stile directly ahead into another field with good views of Stravanan Bay ahead. Turn right through the next field, aiming downhill by a fence, then bearing left to reach a gate. The bald grassy hilltop of Suidhe Chatain is visible and is the next target. Cross the gate and head steeply uphill in the field beyond, keeping the fence on your right. At the top of the field is another gate, a stile and a pile of stones cleared from the pasture. Cross the stile and continue ahead, crossing a small footbridge and keeping ahead uphill. When the fence turns to the right, the route goes right with it soon reaching a stile.
From here (before crossing the stile) there is a short (but very steep) optional grassy detour to the left to visit the top of Suidhe Chatain, passing through a stile just before reaching the triangulation point on the summit. The views from here are superb, taking in much of Bute. Return back to the path and cross the stile. Marker posts indicate the descent, bearing left and eventually running alongside the fence and wall enclosing a wood. Cross a stile when a fence is reached and then, further down, turn left through a gate into the woods. The path descends through the trees to reach a lane at the back of the houses of Kilchattan Bay. The next stage of the West Island Way goes left along the back of the houses, but to reach the village bear right down a lane between two bungalows to reach the road in the village. Turn right along the front to return to the start.
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