Ben Macdui and Derry Cairngorm

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Summary

Ben Macdui is Britain's second highest peak, and unlike Ben Nevis, Macdui is situated in the centre of a vast wilderness. The best approaches are from Deeside, avoiding the ski areas on Cairngorm; this makes an excellent long hillwalk in good weather conditions.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

Rating

Terrain

A long, remote walk that leads up to an exposed, arctic-like plateau which experiences savage weather conditions.

Public Transport

None to start.

Start

Linn of Dee car park (charge). Open in Google Maps.

Hillwalking in Winter

Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. All route descriptions and difficulties given here are for summer conditions. See our Winter Skills page for basic information on the essential skills, techniques and knowledge needed for winter hillwalking.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 29km / 18 miles
Time (summer conditions): 9 - 11 hours
Ascent: 1068m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NO062898

Summits Climbed

Munro: Ben Macdui
Munro: Derry Cairngorm

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (29)

Stage 1

Park at the large National Trust car park at the Linn of Dee; there is a charge. Before beginning the walk, it is worth heading back to the road and having a look at the Linn of Dee on the far side, where the River Dee plunges through a narrow rocky defile, spanned by the road bridge. Return to the car park, and this time take the footpath which leaves it to the north. This path through the forest has a 'boardwalk' surface in parts, and soon curves east and passes through a gate to join the main landrover track heading up Glen Lui. Turn left up this track, which soon crosses the Lui Water, leaves the forest and continues up the more empty glen.

Stage 2

After a couple more kilometres the track passes below a plantation and then enters the beautiful pinewoods around Derry Lodge. This former shooting lodge is boarded up; it is now owned by the National Trust for Scotland following its purchase of the vast Mar Lodge estate. Just south of here is Bob Scott's, an open refuge for walkers; please help to maintain this by carrying out any rubbish when you pass back this way as it has been badly abused by some. Continue past Derry Lodge, forking right to pass the mountain rescue building and cross the Derry Burn via a footbridge. On the far side turn left across the flats; the path is boggy for some distance before becoming excellent once back amongst the pines. These gradually become more scattered as the route continues up Glen Luibeg.

Stage 3

The path forks just before an area of fenced, regenerating woodland. From here, if you have plenty of energy, you could join the route up Càrn a'Mhaim and then follow its fine arête to reach Ben Macdui. Otherwise, for the shorter, Sròn Riach route, take the right fork, which gently curves round the hillside to the right to continue up into upper Glen Luibeg, which is bare of trees. There are grand views up the glen of the route up Sròn Riach and the grand cliffs of Coire Sputan Dearg. After a couple more kilometres, the burn forks and its right branch must be crossed; this is usually straightforward but may require a detour upstream after wetter weather. Once on the far side, follow the path which begins the climb up Sròn Riach in earnest. The path is good and the climb is steady, but long. The top of Sròn Riach is a short-lived releif, as across a shallow dip the climb begins again, this time close to the edge of broken cliffs which plummet down to Lochan Uaine. Continue ascending close to the cliff edge until you reach the cairn on Coire Sputan Dearg, which is on the edge of the Macdui plateau.

Stage 4

From here, break off left across the plateau, crossing another shallow dip to begin the final climb. Just short of the summit is a roofless stone shelter; this was the Sapper's bothy, built by OS surveyors in the 1840s when they were trying to calculate whether Ben Macdui or Ben Nevis was Britain's highest peak. Continue beyond this shelter to reach the large cairn, trig point and view indicator on the summit of Ben Macdui. At 1309 metres, this is now known to be the second highest point in the UK; it is reputedly haunted by a huge, shadowy apparition known as the Grey Man.

Stage 5

The view is extensive although the tundra-like plateau robs it of much depth. Head back towards the Coire Sputan Dearg cliffs (keeping well back from the corniced edge in winter), and this time turn left and follow the path which descends northeast, coming up from Loch Etchachan.

Stage 6

In the 1800s this was the pony track to the summit of Macdui, and was used by Queen Victoria when she ascended the mountain, somewhat hampered by the vast skirts of the time. Break to the right off the path to reach the bealach at 1053m below Creagan a'Choire Etchachan. You can either head up to the top of this minor peak, or skirt its southwestern flanks. Continue across the 1014 bealach between the Creagan and Derry Cairngorm itself.

Stage 7

Head uphill across the awkward boulderfield to the ridge of Derry Cairngorm. The summit is towards the far end, and although much lower than Ben Macdui it is still a substantial peak at 1155 metres. From Deeside it is the most prominent summit of the range, and was once simply known as Cairngorm; in more recent times the 'Derry' was added to distinguish it from the Speyside Cairngorm. As might be expected, it is a fine viewpoint for Deeside, whilst Ben Macdui looks impressive above the great cliffs. Continue southeast across more boulders before reaching the good path that leads down to the bealach and across to Càrn Crom.

Stage 8

Ascend briefly to reach Carn Crom, the final rise on the end of the ridge. From here, descend southeast, still on a path, to the crags of Creag Bad an t-Seabhaig. Wind down through these to return to the pinewoods around Derry Lodge, and follow the track back to the Linn of Dee.

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