The Two Lairigs, Glen Coe

This fine circular walk combines two historic passes between Glen Coe and Glen Etive - the Lairig Eilde and the Lairig Gartain - to make a fine circular walk around the base of Buachaille Etive Beag.

Terrain

Both Lairigs have generally good hill paths. There are several unbridged burn crossings which can be impassable in spate. The far end of the Lairig Gartain is boggy, and the return walk on the old Military Road in Glen Coe is extremely boggy and waterlogged.

Public Transport

Glasgow - Fort William and Skye buses on A82 but nearest stop is The Kingshouse.

Start

Glen Coe car park opposite the 'Beehive' cairn. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

Park in the small car park off the A82 opposite the beehive cairn. From here a path soon joins the Right of Way (signposted from just down the road) through the Lairig Eilde. There are good views of the Aonach Eagach ridge over to the right. The path has been greatly improved by the National Trust for Scotland, and soon leads up to a fork; the left hand path heads up to the bealach on the ridge of Buachaille Etive Beag, but to continue our walk through the Lairig Eilde fork right.

Stage 2

The path soon slopes down to and fords the Allt Lairig Eilde - there are stepping stones to help when the weather is dry, but after heavy rains this crossing (and others later on the walk) may become impossible. On the far side the path continues up the glen, with good views ahead towards Stob Coire Sgreamhach. After 2.5km the path fords the burn again to continue up the southern side of the glen.

Stage 3

Eventually the path swings south to reach the summit of the Lairig Eilde, with the far side of the pass descending much more steeply ahead towards Glen Etive. As the path descends it soon crosses to the west side of the burn (confusingly, also called the Allt Lairig Eilde). When the path reaches a fenced enclosure some walkers have cut off left beside the fence to shortcut the route, crossing the burn and boggy ground to rejoin the route further on. Officially, however, stay on the path as it bears slightly right to head into the fenced area of regenerating woodland at a gate.

Stage 4

Further on - just before two large fenceposts are reached - there is a path junction; turn left here onto the narrow constructed path down steps. When this reaches another path junction turn left, following a made path to reach the burn. Cross the burn again (impossible in spate conditions) and then follow the very boggy path uphill beyond. The path climbs steeply to a kissing gate; after passing through this the bogs are left behind and the going becomes good once more. There are stunning views looking back down Glen Etive.

Stage 5

Continue up the well made path which soon swings right to head towards the Lairig Gartain. The path continues up the reach the summit of the pass, which curiously is the same height as the Lairig Eilde summit at 489m.

Stage 6

The path now descends gently, keeping to the north side of the River Coupall, with the two Buachailles on either side.

Stage 7

Eventually the path emerges at a parking layby on the A82 road, with a footpath sign for the Lairig Gartain. Carefully cross the road and take an initially faint path opposite; this soon swings left and follows the line of the old military road through Glen Coe.

Stage 8

The path is not maintained and is usually exceptionally boggy underfoot, being waterlogged in many places. After almost 2km of this it returns to the A82. Continue beside this very busy road - keeping on the narrow path on the right verge - until a track leads off to the right. Follow this track, soon giving superb views of Glen Coe ahead. Just before an old stone bridge - with the beehive cairn visible across the river below - leave the track on a faint path to head towards the cairn. There's a wide but usually shallow burn to cross (again, may not be possible in spate) to reach the cairn. The car park at the start of the walk is just across the road.

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