Southern Upland Way 3: Bargrennan to St John's Town of Dalry

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This long stage heads through the heart of the Galloway Hills. There are no facilities en route except for White Laggan, an open bothy (sleeping/cooking gear needed). Pick-ups could be arranged at one of the road crossings to split the stage. A detour via Glentrool village at the start passes a campsite, Glentrool Hive (with showers when open) and Glen Trool Visitor Centre seasonal cafe. The country is wilder and more remote than encountered so far, with extesnive forest plantations as well as loch and moorland scenery.

Terrain

Forest tracks and paths, short sections that can be boggy. Long sections of track are tiring underfoot. Care with navigation needed on paths across moorland hills in poor visibility.

Public Transport

Buses serve Balgrennan and Dalry.

Start

Bargrennan. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

At Bargrennan the Way takes the A714 to cross the River Cree then leaves the road for a path running south beside the river through pleasant woodland. The path crosses a minor road and soon afterwards turns away from the river and reaches a forest track that is followed a short way to a minor road, which is crossed to another forest track. After 2.75km from Bargrennan take a narrow signed path on the right which leads through woodland to the Water of Minnoch. Continue upstream and after climbing a stone stile in a wall, through more ancient woodland, eventually crossing a wooden footbridge and going through a metal gate. Soon the path emerges onto a track, bear right to cross the bridge at Holm and then just a short way further on turn left onto a path.

Stage 2

After a gate the Way keeps just to the left of a fence before heading through another gate on the left to descend to soon reach the river and follow it upstream passing the confluence of the Minnoch and Trool. Soon afterwards the path emerges at a junction, the SUW continues straight ahead but turning left to cross the bridge and left again brings you to the Loch Trool Visitor Centre (1.5km) which has a summer cafe/toilets. The route follows the Water of Trool with good open views. Keep ahead when a path forks (short detour right leads to the Martyr's Tomb where 6 Covenanters were killed) and soon an information board is reached.

Stage 3

The bridge on the left leads to the Caldons car park but the SUW stays on this side of the river, turn right on the track and follow it, keeping left at each of two track junctions. The track then crosses a bridge over Caldons burn, to enter what was once the long-closed Caldons campsite. When the track forks go left, and then look out for a SUW marker indicating where to leave the track and go left over another tiny bridge. Finally fork right onto a footpath that climbs up through the trees before eventually descending with the first glimpses of Loch Trool.

Stage 4

The route undulates along the south side of Loch Trool with views across the water, first to Glen Trool Lodge and later to the Bruce's Stone seen high above the far side of the loch. Near the head of the loch the trail climbs steeply, including a couple of flights of steps. Just beyond the eastern end of the loch the path descends to the Glenhead Burn. The route used to cross the burn here and traverse slopes above the burn before rejoining the forest track (still marked on some maps and waymarked occasionally and passable if you prefer a more rugged, scenic alterative to the track). However the current route stays on the south side of the burn and climbs up the forest track through some commercial plantations before descending back to the head of the burn, where the old route comes in.

Stage 5

The point where the track crosses the watershed between lochs Trool and Dee is marked by The Giant Axe Head, a stone artwork carved with runes. The words are an ancient poem, The Mystery, ascribed to the Irish druid, Amergin. They are said to have been the first words he spoke on first setting foot on Ireland. Continue down the track with views to Loch Dee and the Galloway Hills on either side. Keep straight ahead when another track heads left down to the loch soon passing an ornate cycle route 7 marker and curving away from the loch as the track descends.

Stage 6

When the track reaches its lowest point, just after a turning area to the right and before the bridge over the White Laggan Burn, a grassy path on the right offers a 300m detour to White Laggan Bothy. This is a useful shelter for breaking up this long stage but sleeping and cooking equipment need to be carried. The bothy is maintained by volunteers from the Mountain Bothy Association; always follow the bothy code when visiting. After crossing the White Laggan Burn (good wild camping spot here and also below the bothy) the track climbs with good views over Loch Dee and the hills beyond. Keep left at a track junction and left again just after a vehicle barrier to descend to cross a bridge over the River Dee. After the bridge turn left and stay on this track ignoring a track off to the left.

Stage 7

There are fairly open views of hills and forestry as the stony track passes a mast and then keeps right at a junction to eventually cross the Garrary Burn and reach the edge of the large Clatteringshaws Loch. There are glimpses of the water through the trees and a viewpoint. The track then bears north away from the loch and climbs, keep straight on when another track joins from the left. When it reaches a minor road there is a 'Pick-up Point', as this is a good spot to split this long stage if vehicle backup is available. Turn left along the road and, after 200m, turn right to cross a stile and follow a path to the right of a drystone dyke. After another stile the grassy path continues with a burn on your right. Go straight across a forest track and over a couple of footbridges; the path swings right at the forestry.

Stage 8

After another gate the path runs along the eastern flank of Shield Rig; this section can be quite faint and rough, with bracken, coarse grass and a few rocks - look out for the marker posts. After passing a large boulder the path crosses the ridge and descends to a gate and bridge over the Garroch Burn. Continue to a track, then turn right along this. The track passes through a couple of gates and eventually joins a minor road, as the landscape loses its harshness and becomes greener and more fertile.

Stage 9

After several kilometres, look out for a sign indicating where to turn left onto a path into the woods, with a burn on your left. This is soon crossed on a footbridge. Go through the gate and turn right, crossing some wooden boardwalks through the field and woods. After two more gates the path climbs up to Waterside Hill, where there is a bench and fine views. Continue down towards Dalry, now seen ahead. Further down the path joins a track, and then heads through a gate. At the road turn right, then left after the cottage, and cross a footbridge over a burn. Now turn left and follow the banks of the Water of Ken (on your left). When a suspension bridge is reached go across and then straight ahead up the path into St John's Town of Dalry, where there is a pub, hotel, two shops and some B&Bs.

Next stage: St John's Town of Dalry to Sanquhar

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Southern Upland Way 3: Bargrennan to St John's Town of Dalry

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