Ailsa Craig - the ascent

The dramatic granite outpost of Ailsa Craig is an icon amongst Scotland's smaller islands. The island can be visited on a boat trip from Girvan; the ascent to its highest point as described here is extremely steep and rough: it gives a real hillwalking challenge but an unforgettable one.

Terrain

Extremely steep ascent; path only on lower parts, often obscured by deep bracken in summer and slippery with bluebells in spring.

Public Transport

Boat trip from Girvan; Girvan is served by both bus and train.

Start

Ailsa Craig pier (boat trips from Girvan). Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

The dome of Ailsa Craig is a familiar landmark from the Ayrshire coastline and from southern Arran. Situated about 14km from the coast it is usually reached by a boat trip from Girvan, and is a fascinating place to visit regardless of whether you want to make the ascent. The name means the 'Fairy Rock' in Gaelic and the island has an interesting history. It is also known as Paddy's Milestone - being half way between Belfast and Glasgow, and has been used as a refuge by Catholics, a haven for smugglers and as the quarry for 60-70% of the world's curling stones (quarrying takes place in short bursts every few years).

Stage 2

It is essential to book a boat trip in advance; not all give enough time to make the ascent (which also depends on your level of fitness). Crossings are also frequently disrupted by the sea conditions, whilst landing at the jetty is often not possible at low tides. Make sure you check when the boat is leaving, and turn around if you haven't reached the summit in half the time available. If everything is in your favour, disembark at the old jetty and head up the rail track lines onto the island.

Stage 3

Pass to the left side of the fenced old quarry complex, but keeping well to the right of the lighthouse. Aim for the whitewashed, square house just beyond. There is only one way up the lower slopes; this is on a path that begins along the far side of the whitewashed house. It then climbs diagonally up the slope to the left; the gradient is not too steep on this first section but some may find the ascent exposed, with extremely steep slopes soon dropping to your left.

Stage 4

The path emerges on a broad shelf; turn right to head up to the island's castle, which dates from the 16th century, and was intended to defend against Spanish invasion.

Stage 5

From here the ascent becomes much steeper and the path less well trodden. It heads very steeply up the bracken slope to reach another broad shelf. Once on this shelf follow it to the left for around 150m, then leave it - still on a trace of a path - to ascend another steep, rockier section, zig-zagging for the easiest line. Thankfully the bracken is less of a problem from here.

Stage 6

Higher up the now grassy, faint path heads up along a wide, grassy rake. At one point there's a slight dip before the rake rises again, passing a collapsed stone ruin. Continue up the rake until a convenient point to make the final steep ascent to the summit.

Stage 7

A trig point marks the highest point, set on a small grassy plateau. None of the lower part of the island can be seen from the summit, which feels like a green field set in the air; on clear days the views to Arran, Kintyre, mainland Scotland and Northern Ireland are unique. There is no other route up or down the Craig, so carefully retrace your steps all the way back down to the buildings on the shore. If time permits you can pass round the seaward side of the lighthouse complex.

Stage 8

The most memorable part of the trip is still to come for most people, as many of the boat trips pass around the far side of the island. This reveals the spectacular granite columnar cliffs and their remarkable sea bird colonies. Ailsa Craig is leased by the RSPB as a bird sanctuary, and the cliffs are home to 70,000 gannets as well as many guillemots and kittewakes; puffins also have returned to breed here after having previously been wiped out by rats which have now been eliminated.

Stage 9

You'll also see the nineteenth century foghorns at both the northern and southern end of the island. The far side of the Craig is much more dramatic than the side usually seen from Ayrshire; after rounding it the boat will turn back to Girvan for the final leg of a truly memorable excursion.

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