The second stage of the Ayrshire Coastal Path follows the sandy and rocky shoreline before running alongside the busy A77. Whilst always close to the coast and with great sea views, the nearby main road does detract from the walk.
Surfaced roads, rocky, pebbly and sandy shore and grassy roadside verges.
Both Ballantrae and Lendalfoot are served by regular buses along the A77.
Ballantrae.
From the car park at the southern end of Ballantrae head north along the seafront to reach the small protected harbour. Dating from 1846, the harbour was once a thriving herring port until larger modern fishing boats outgrew it and herring stocks declined. Head down the small slipway and turn right along the beach. Even at high tide there is a strip of sand and pebbles at the back of the beach to walk on.
Follow the beach for 3km with constant views of Ailsa Craig out to sea and the landmark of Bennane Head getting larger up ahead. Eventually just before you reach the stream and the cottage ahead turn right on a signed path heading inland, go through the gate and across to the parking and road. Now there is a choice: the official Coastal Path diverts inland here to run near the busy A77, a steep climb with limited views. To follow this route cross the A77 and turn left and climb the dedicated path uphill. The alternative route follows the old A77 on the seaward side of Bennane Head and has lovely views, but it includes 2 locked farm gates which must be climbed and crosses open fields with cattle and sheep.
If taking the coastal option turn left to follow the minor road behind the cottages, go through the gate and continue on the old road. A small cairn overlooking the beach is in memory of Henry Ewing Torbert 'Snib' - a hermit who spent many years living in Bennane Cave until his death in 1983 at the age of 71. The route passes the walled cave which penetrates deep into the hillside. Continue up the road with excellent sea and cliff views eventually crossing the locked gates to emerge at the A77.
Turn left and follow the verge to a viewpoint carpark for Ailsa Craig, overlooking Balcreuchan Port and Sawney Bean's Cave which folklore says was home to a family of cannibals said to devour travellers along the Carrick coast in the 16th Century. Continue on the inside of the crash barrier, soon following a path separated further from the road which is more pleasant before returning again to the verge.
Pass the entrance to Bennane Caravan Park and after a section of pavement it is possible to either walk along the shore (take the signed turn for the low tide option) or - at high tide or if you want easier going underfoot - continue on the pavement. Pass some caravans and scattered houses before a pretty group of wooden houses comes into view with the marginally larger settlement of Lendalfoot beyond.
South of Carleton Bay pass a picnic area with a bronze memorial to the memory of the Imperial Russian battle-cruiser Varyag, which sank 500m offshore here whilst being towed south for scrap in 1920. Thanks to heroism displayed in an epic battle in the Russo-Japanese war in 1904, Varyag holds legendary status amongst Russians, and the unveiling of the monument was televised live throughout Russia.
After this the route continues past a row of fishermen's cottages, several tiny slips and breakwaters to reach an old black fisherman's hut almost built into the rocks. Again depending on the tide it is possible to divert along the shore instead of the pavement. To the right of the A77 the ruins of Carleton Castle, the ancestral home of the Cathcarts the family that once ruled Carrick, can be seen. If you've taken the beach/shore option rejoin the A77 just south of Lendalfoot via a small parking area and track from the beach and turn left to reach Lendalfoot. Really just a small collection of houses, there is a bus stop on the main road.
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