Follow a track over undulating moorland to the ruins of the settlement of Grulin on the south side of An Sgùrr - overlooked by its fantastic cliffs. With a good surface underfoot, this makes an easy pleasant walk which could be combined with a visit to the caves if time allows.
Track and path
Ferry to Eigg pier from Mallaig, limited summer service from Arisaig.
Eigg ferry pier.
At the pier is Am Laimhrig which houses the shop, cafe / restaurant, toilets and showers, and craft shop. The shop and craft shop sell a pack of postcards of the waymarked walks on Eigg including Grulin which is marked with green paint splodges.
After a long period of troublesome absentee landlords, the residents of Eigg bought the island in 1997 in partnership with the Highland Council and Scottish Wildlife Trust. Since then a number of initiatives have been undertaken to ensure a sustainable community can exist on Eigg and to provide accommodation and facilities for visitors. From the pier take the road heading uphill to the left of the standing stone erected to mark the community takeover of Eigg. Follow the road, crossing a cattle grid and becoming a track as it heads into the woods.
Pass but ignore the turning to the Lodge and Community Hall on the right and continue ahead, ignoring a second track heading left. At the gate continue through the field heading for the house which is dominated by the Sgùrr rising behind it.
As you near Galmsidale House stay on the track which curves to the right and reaches a gate. Go through the gate and turn left along the track. Continue on the track when the path to An Sgùrr leaves on the right and climb up a gentle slope staying on the track. The large cairn here marks the resting spot of the funeral procession of a famous piper from Grulin. Grulin was one of the last settlements to be forcibly cleared in 1853. Although the population had been declining, the removal of the 14 families and their immigration to Nova Scotia put an end to a viable community at Grulin.
On the left the four small wind turbines that are part of the Eigg electricity grid can be seen. These turbines, in addition to three hydro plants and some solar power, have brought a reliable power supply to the residents after years of relying on diesel generators and individual renewable schemes. Keep following the track which has good views over to Muck to the south and to An Sgùrr on the right.
The track provides easy walk and a perfect vantage point for the amazing cliffs of An Sgùrr to the north. An Sgùrr is formed by columnar pitchstone and is along the line of what was once a river valley. The valley was filled with lava following an eruption of the Rum volcano system. The surrounding rocks were softer and have long since eroded away, leaving this amazing wedge of rock.
Eventually the small restored house at Grulin can be seen ahead. This pretty cottage was restored by Keith Schellenberg who owned Eigg for a fairly brief period in the 1970s. The path forks just before the cottage, pass in front of the cottage and go down the hill a little way to see some of the ruins of what was once the Grulin township. Once home to 14 familes, all were evicted during the Clearances. After returning to the cottage, if you continue along the path behind the cottage other ruins of houses can be seen. The large boulders are erratics left behind by the retreating glacier at the end of the ice age.
Retrace your steps along the track and then turn right immediately after Galmisdale House to follow the path and track back to the pier. It is possible to join the caves walk by turning right on a purple waymarked route almost opposite the community hall. This detour will add at least 1.5 hours to your walk and needs to be done at low tide if you want to see the Cathedral cave.
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