Dean Village and the Galleries of Modern Art

Summary

This circular walk heads from Stockbridge past some magnificent Georgian architecture to reach the Scottish National Galleries of Modern Art. It returns along the Water of Leith, passing through beautiful Dean Village, one of the most magical corners of Edinburgh with a fascinating range of buildings set in the deep gorge of the river.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Roads, pavements and riverside path; long flights of steps.

Getting there

Start

Stockbridge (no parking - access from city centre by bus or on foot).

Public Transport

Bus to Stockbridge from the city centre - bus no. 24, 29 or 42.

Start Grid Ref

NT246745

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 4.5km / 2.75 miles
Time: 1 - 1.5 hours
Ascent: 58m (Profile)

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Walk Description

User reports (1)

Stage 1

There is no parking at the start of this walk, which can be reached from the city centre by bus or alternatively on foot (see the Stockbridge and Botanic Gardens walk for a route to Stockbridge). The walk begins from the bridge over the Water of Leith, by the clocktower building that currently houses Pizza Express. Start by heading up Dean Terrace which runs along the north side of the river.

Stage 2

The cobbled street runs alongside the river with grand Georgian terraces on the right. Eventually the road is followed as it turns to the right into Anne St, a quiet leafy road which must rank amongst the most desirable in the area. Follow the street at it curves left to meet Dean Park Crescent, and turn left along this.

Stage 3

Continue ahead until the busy Queensferry Road A90 is reached. Cross carefully to the far side and turn right onto the much quieter Buckingham Terrace which runs parallel to the main road. Before reaching the end of the Terrace, look right for a distant glance towards the magnificent Fettes College - one of the most exclusive public schools in Scotland and boasting Tony Blair amongst its former pupils.

Stage 4

The terrace soon rejoins the Queensferry Road - turn left along it but then take the next left onto Dean Path. Continue along this street until the entrance to Dean Cemetery on the right. Head into the cemetery and keep straight ahead through it. The cemetery has some magnificent gravestones; those buried here include Francis Cadell and JD Ferguson, two of the most celebrated of the Scottish Colourists - a group of artists who worked in the 1920s and 30s whose reputation continues to rise. At the far end of the cemetery bear left to exit the grounds through a gap in the wall beside a striking pyramidal grave.

Stage 5

Turn left immediately along the far side of the stone wall to reach the front of Modern 2 (formerly the Dean) - part of the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, and turn right past the front of the gallery. Entrance is free and the gallery has a good cafe (that in Modern 1 across the road also serves lunch).

Stage 6

Head straight across the main road to approach this second, larger gallery, Modern 1; as well as several fine modern sculptures in the grounds, note Landform Ueda - a landscape including crescent lakes created by Charles Jencks. Pass across the front of the gallery and then turn left at the far end into the car park. At the far left corner head through the double iron gates onto a footpath, passing a Henry Moore sculpture and down a long flight of steps to reach the Water of Leith. Cross the footbridge and turn left on the far side.

Stage 7

The walk now simply follows the Water of Leith all the way back to Stockbridge. Pass a weir and, further downriver, cross an iron footbridge back to the north bank. Head under a road bridge and ignore the next metal footbridge A suspended walkway now leads past an attractive weir and passes under another metal footbridge. Turn left on the far side of this to climb up and then cross it to the far bank. You are now in perhaps the most enchanting spot on the Water of Leith; on the north side of the river is the impressive red-brick Well Court, built by the owner of the Scotsman newspaper to house his workers. Follow the cobbled walkway which climbs on the south side of the river, alongside some picturesque half-timbered cottages. This is Dean Village.

Stage 8

The cobbled Hawthorne Bank Lane leads up past some characterful old houses. Go straight across - downhill - at the top, signed for St Bernard's Well. The walkway now leads under the towering arches of the Telford Dean Bridge; built in 1832 this removed the need for a steep descent and climb on the crossing of the river. Soon St Bernard's Well is reached, capped by a Roman temple-style folly and a statue of Hygeia, Goddess of Health. Once popular for healing, recent tests have shown it to be unfit for drinking. Further on, pass under the steps and bridge onto Saunders Street. Across the river opposite is Dean Terrace and an area with some of the finest Georgian streets of Edinburgh. Continue ahead to emerge back in Stockbridge.

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