St Magnus Way: Evie to Birsay

Summary

The second stage of St Magnus Way is a real walk of contrasts. After a fine beginning at Evie Bay, there is an extremely rough section of coastal walking - probably the toughest on the whole route. This is followed by just over 5km of road walking along the A966. Things then improve, with superb views from Costa Hill and a stunning walk along the wild clifftops to Birsay and the original burial place of St Magnus.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Tracks, then extremely rough coastal walking - either overgrown nettles or slippery rocks if the tide permits. Long section of roadwalking, then remote cliff top walk on mostly grassy terrain.

Getting there

Start

Gurness broch car park.

Public Transport

None to start; nearest bus stop is Evie School, 3km from start. Birsay is served by bus.

Start Grid Ref

HY380268

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 20.4km / 12.75 miles
Time: 6 - 8 hours
Ascent: 570m (Profile)

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Explorer 463 - Orkney West

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

The mainland section of St Magnus Way starts at a marker stone with a poem, at the car park for Gurtness Broch, some 6km from the Tingwall ferry which serves Egilsay. It is well worth visiting the broch - one of the finest in Orkney - before starting the walk; there is an admission charge in summer. Begin the walk by following the minor road away from the broch.

Stage 2

There are soon views across the lovely Sands of Evie (also known as Aikerness Beach). If water levels are sufficiently low you can make a shortcut by crossing the burn and walking across the sands; otherwise, continue along the road as it bends left, then right, then turn right onto a track. This soon leads to a bridge over the burn and runs behind the beach. It then emerges at a car park and toilets at the end of another minor road.

Stage 3

Continue along the coast from the parking area, passing a stone building and at a waymarker on a fence turning right to reach the shore. If the tide is out the easiest route is along the shore, sandy at first but increasingly rocky (and slippery) later. Otherwise there is a very faint, rough path in the overgrown grass and rocks above the shoreline. Cross a burn and eventually the safest route is along the top of the low cliff next to the barbed wire fence, this can be very overgrown with nettles in summer and loose rocks underfoot. The prominent lump in a field to the left is the remains of the Knowe of Grugar broch. After this turn left at a waymarker to head up a grassy path between fences to reach the road at Feolquoy - there is a carved viking and bench opposite.

Stage 4

Turn right along the A966 road. The tarmac is followed for over 5km; take care with traffic. There are good views - first to Eynhallow, site of an ancient monastery, and later to the ruins of St Peter's Kirk; a section of route which once went down to the coast here has closed. Eventually the road crosses a low ridge and then descends towards the Loch of Swannay. As it nears the loch, take a sharp right through a gate onto a grassy track that climbs back, giving grand views over the loch and later back along the coastline.

Stage 5

At the top of the hill is a trig point and several derelict buildings. These housed a radio station during World War 2, and later was the site of the world’s first wind turbine with a grid connection - now dismantled. Pass to the right of the building, and pass the base of the once-turbine. A narrow path then continues across the heather, marked by posts. The keeps to the highest ground, eventually passing through a gate - on the right here is a geo that cuts into the cliffs.

Stage 6

Keep ahead across the open grassy ground; eventually the route comes alongside a fence on your right. An informal dump is reached at the end of a track; go through a pedestrian gate here to continue the coast walk. The going is a little rougher in places but the scenery is superb; continue to reach a footbridge over the Swannay Burn. On the far side the clifftop walk continues, keeping mostly to the seaward side of a fence. It passes through a gate in a stone wall, and later another in a fence. After almost 3km from the burn the route turns inland alongside a deep geo. The path descends and climbs steps over several side inlets in the geo, almost reaching the road at Greenhill.

Stage 7

Go through a wooden walker's gate at the head of the long geo and follow the far side passing wartime buildings at Whitaloo Point. There are great views of the high cliffs from here and also to the Brough of Birsay almost the end of this stage of the St Magnus Way. A short way further a stile leads over to the cliff path which is the route of the Way but it is also possible to follow the easier grass just inside the fence until a metal walker's gate.

Stage 8

After the gate keep the fence on your left and follow the grassy clifftop path (the route nearer the coast has better views that the alternative grassy track) with the views of the tidal island of the Brough of Birsay improving ahead. Pass through a wooden kissing gate and after a bench the route turns right onto a track. Soon pass a restored fisherman's hut with a series of hollows in the ground (known as nousts) where boats would have been hauled up to and stored in during the winter.

Stage 9

Keep alongside the stone wall to reach the parking and picnic area overlooking the Brough of Birsay. If the tide is heading out and you have time before it returns, it's well taking the causeway over and exploring the island which has an ancient norse settlement and a Stevenson-built lighthouse. Otherwise take the road to reach the settlement of Birsay and the dramatic ruins of the Earl's Palace. The official end of the stage is at the bridge over the Burn of Boardhouse with public toilets opposite. Birsay has a shop, seasonal tearoom and campsite and hostel fairly nearby as well as bus to Kirkwall.

Next stage: Birsay to Dounby

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