Explore the historic heart of Kirkwall, including the impressive St Magnus Cathedral and the narrow streets where the notorious ball-game the Ba is played, before heading out to the Peedie Sea and the busy harbour.
Bog Factor
Roads with pavements, town centre lanes, shared footpath/cycleway
Car park on A965 near habour, opposite Ayre Hotel, Kirkwall.
Buses and ferries to Kirkwall.
HY447112
There is a car park on the Kirkwall waterfont on Ayre Road, just west of the harbour; the bus station is very close to here as well. Start by walking east (to the right as you face the sea) keeping straight ahead along harbourside at Kiln Corner roundabout (where you can detour towards the town to visit the Orkney Wireless Museum with its vast collection of domestic and defence wireless equipment) to reach the harbour. The stone building with steps up to the door on the right is the Girnel, built in the 1500s, it was used to store oats, bere, malt and meal paid in lieu of rent to the Earldom Estate. The building now houses the Orkney Sailing Club and the red, blue and yellow flag that usually flies is the Orkney flag, chosen by the community in 2007 it is based on Norwegian and Scottish colours to represent the shared heritage. Continue along Harbour Street passing the St Ola Hotel and turn right onto Bridge Street.
This street contains some of the oldest building in Kirkwall, some with characteristic crowstepped gables, including the former Ship Inn (now an Indian restaurant) where Sir Walter Scott dined in 1814. You can also find a couple of shops selling Orkney-made jewellery and the hardware store has a good selection of Orkney whiskies and beers. Detour to the left along St Olaf's Wynd to see the remains of an archway (on the left) from St Olaf's Kirk which stood on the site of a much earlier Norse wooden church. Return to Bridge Street and continue along it, passing around the corner into Albert Street.
This street - now the main Kirkwall shopping street - used to face onto the Peedie (Orkney dialect for small, the older traditional version is Peerie) Sea which has since reduced in size as Kirkwall expanded. Many of the original buildings here were destroyed by a fire in 1938. Continue onto Broad Street until St Magnus Cathedral on your left. Founded in 1137 by the Viking, Earl Rognvald, in honour of his uncle St Magnus. Some parts of the sandstone building date back 850 years and it is well worth taking a look inside, it is also possible to take a guided tour which includes a climb up the tower.
Note the old mercat cross outside the cathedral and turn up to the left onto Palace Road to look at the Bishop's and Earl's Palaces on the far side of the road. These fascinating ancient buildings, homes to the Sinclair earls of Orkney which was at the time under Norwegian control, can be visited on a combined ticket. The Bishop's Palace dates back to the early 12th century, whilst the Earl's Palace was built around 1606. Return to Broad Street and the Orkney Museum is directly ahead, originally the large Tankerness House, used partly as a manse for the cathedral it now houses displays on the history of Orkney.
Continue to the left to explore Victoria Street which has a number of interesting buildings and shops (note the dates and intials above some of the doors which relate to the marriage of the original residents). This is one of the streets where the Ba is played every Christmas and New Year. The aim of this mass football game which starts from outside the Cathedral and is played between the Uppies and Doonies (local residents split depending on which part of town they're from) is to propel the ball either into the sea (Doonies) or beyond the junction of Main St and New Scapa Rd (Uppies). Games can often last hours as the ball is lost amongst the scrum of players.
Return back along Victoria Street and turn left after the RBS onto Tankerness Lane and head right through a gateway to visit Tankerness House Gardens which as well as being a pleasant spot for a break is home to the Groatie House, a small folly covered with shells. Return to Tankerness Lane and continue right and at the bottom turn right onto Junction Road passing the impressive Orkney Library and Archives building.
Turn left onto West Castle St at the corner with the Tourist Information Centre and pass the bus station. At the bottom of the road, opposite the fire station, cross to reach the pavement and turn right along Great Western Road which soon becomes Burgh Road. This soon runs alongside the Peedie Sea. This was originally much bigger but silted up and was reduced in size as the harbour and neighbouring streets expanded. Follow the pavement to the right, heading towards the real sea and bear left at the roundabout and pick up the footway running alongside the Peedie Sea. This then lets you access a walk around the circular boating lake built in the 1970s.
A model yacht club still holds races on the boating pond and the perimeter path is also popular with local walkers, cyclists and runners. Once you have walked around it return to Ayre roundabout and cross to the seaward side of the road to return to the start on Ayre Road with views of the harbour ahead.
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