Ayre to Cantick Head coastal circuit, South Walls

Summary

The stunning coastline of South Walls has dramatic stacks, arches, and gloups on the way to Cantick Head lighthouse. The return is on a pleasant minor road which cuts across South Walls - or the outward coastal route could be retraced for a slightly longer walk.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Coastal walking on short turf, pathless in places, minor road from Cantick Head back to the start

Getting there

Start

Car park on South Walls side of the Ayre between Hoy and South Walls.

Public Transport

Lyness to Longhope bus (which meets most ferries) passes the start.

Start Grid Ref

ND292892

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 13km / 8 miles
Time: 3.5 - 4.5 hours
Ascent: 249m (Profile)

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Explorer 462 - Hoy

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

Start from the car park at the eastern end of the Ayre, once a tidal gravel bar, it was made into a permanent causeway connecting Hoy to South Walls in 1912. From the car park follow the path to the south side of the Ayre and bear left to follow a faint path east through the grass and up onto the low cliffs. When it nears a fence bear left to head uphill slightly to a stile leading to a small footbridge. From here the route returns nearer to the sea and continues along the cliff top, crossing a number of stiles.

Stage 2

As the cliffs get higher the number of seabirds increases, sometimes peregrine falcons and arctic skuas are seen hunting here, the latter often pursue and harass other birds until they drop their food which the skua will quickly consume. This part of the coast has a number of sea stacks and geos - deep bays which cut into the cliffs and require a detour inland.

Stage 3

As well as the coastal features and seabirds, the next stage of the walk through the Hill of White Hamars wildlife reserve is renowned for its wildflowers, with over 180 different species recorded including the Scottish primrose (primula scotia), a purple flower seen in May and sometimes August, it is also one of the best areas on Orkney for butterflies.

Stage 4

The area around Birsi Geo is particularly dramatic and a good place to watch the seabirds on the steep cliffs.

Stage 5

The path continues over stiles with good views of a large sea stack known as The Candle. There are short cuts inland to Snelsetter but this route continues along the coast. The next section is dominated by two large gloups, collapsed caves which have formed blow holes with the sea visible below. Take care around this sheer-sided holes.

Stage 6

The cliffs now get less high and a building and ruin can be seen ahead. Pass the steep sided West Geo and the grassed over mound of a broch at Hesti Geo is soon passed. The path now climbs, keep aiming for the next stile, and soon the lighthouse at Cantick Head can be seen.

Stage 7

Keep to the seaward side of the stone wall, don't go through the first gate but once past the lighthouse itself go through a farm gate on the left to reach the road up to the lighthouse. Turn right to head down this. Follow the road around the headland and down to the small settlement of Osmondwall. Continue on the road as it climbs past the cemetery where there is a monument to the crew of the Longhope lifeboat who perished in 1969 while trying to rescue the crew of a wrecked cargo boat.

Stage 8

Ignore the turn off to the right (B9047 to Longhope) and follow the minor road as it climbs and crosses farmland to eventually return to descend to the start, with great views over the Ayre that connects South Walls to Hoy.

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