West Coast Walk Stage 1: Stromness to Bay of Skaill

Leaving Stromness via the Point of Ness with great views of Hoy, this classic walk climbs to Black Craig and continues along the dramatic scenery that the west coast of Mainland Orkney provides, passing impressive sea stacks at Yesnaby to reach the neolithic village of Skara Brae (entrance charge) and the white sands of Skaill Bay. This is a linear route and transport is needed for the return.

Terrain

Coastal walking on short turf, pathless in places and sometimes boggy, infrequent waymarkers

Public Transport

Bus x1 Kirkwall to Stromness, bus 8s from Skara Brae (near Skaill Bay) to Kirkwall summer only.

Start

Stromness car park near the ferry terminal. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

There is car parking just before the ferry terminal in Stromness. Begin the walk by heading along the road past the terminal, then bearing right to join Stromness' Main Street - variously named Victoria Street, Dundas Street and Alfred Street as it takes a narrow, winding course parallel to the waterfront. The road eventually leaves the town and heads on through the Point of Ness Campsite, remaining an obvious track.

Stage 2

Pass a small gun emplacement on the left, with excellent views across the sound to the twin peaks of Cuilags and Ward Hill which give the island of Hoy it's name (old Norse for 'High Island'). The track passes Warebeth Cemetery and a car park; continue on the coastal footpath beyond until a sign indicates a turn to the right inland on a grass path between two fences.

Stage 3

Follow this away from the coast, eventually it turns right and reaches a minor road. Turn left along the road for a couple of kilometres. When the tarmac ends continue up the track to pass in front of the house and then the ruin at Fletts. Go through the walkers gate at the side of the ruin and uphill over the stile to follow the grassy path which climbs beside the fence. An old lookout surveys the great views from the summit of Black Craig. From here head north over the stile to follow a grassy path (can be boggy in places) along the clifftops.

Stage 4

This coastline is a geologists paradise, comprised from 400 million year old sendimentary and older basement rocks with outcrops of aeolianite which are fossilised sand dunes. There are a number of paths heading along the cliffs with high sea stacks and many caves visible. Take care where steep inlets cut into the cliff - stiles and a couple of small bridges and a kissing gate deal with any obstacles.

Stage 5

The approach to Yesnaby is dominated by a sea stack known as Yesnaby Castle with a natural arch at its foot. First climbed by Joe Brown in 1967 it is still a popular destination for climbers. The path continues on the seaward side of a fence with good views of another stack joined by a single rock near the top. You can detour out to the top of the Brough of Bigging where the defensive walls of an ancient fort can just be made out. Otherwise continue down the steps and bridge at the back of the Noust of Bigging inlet to soon reach the parking area and buildings at the road end at Yesnaby.

Stage 6

Cross a stile to continue the coast walk above the cliff tops, crossing an area where the topsoil has been eroded away. Flagstones act as markers as the route continues to head around the inlet of the Noust of Borwick. Cross a stile to keep between the coastline and a fence, passing a sea stack to reach the Broch of Borwick - the remains of an iron age defensive tower.

Stage 7

Further on the going becomes a little boggy in one or two places, and crosses a stile over a fence. Pass the geo (inlet) at Ness of Ramnageo, crossing more eroded ground on the gradual climb to the prominent cairn on Row Head - an excellent viewpoint, with the Old Man of Hoy visible in good weather.

Stage 8

Round the impressive Yettna Geo before the coast and walk begin to descend. Avoid the wall and fields at the foot of the slope by bearing left to descend with the aid of a metal rail to the pebbly shore, and continue on the shore side of the fence to reach the Bay of Skaill. The impressive Skaill House visible is open to the public as part of the Skara Brae attraction. Unless visiting this (a must!) keep to the beach below it, eventually heading up from the bay to the public toilets and parking area. From here, Skara Brae (and its bus stop) are a short distance south along the road. The West Coast walk continues from the Bay of Skaill to Birsay.

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