Kylestrome to Rhiconich

Summary

This long stretch leaves the spectacular environs of Kylesku - with great views back - for a track across the moors and up to the lonely summit of Ben Dreavie. A pathless yomp then leads across to another old track, passing beneath dramatic Ben Stack before descending to the A838. A fine old stalkers' route then leads round the west side of Arkle before another pathless and very boggy stretch - with a potentially major river crossing - emerges at Rhiconich on the west coast.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Good moorland tracks and paths for much of the route; there are much rougher, completely pathless stretches after Ben Dreavie and after the Arkle stalkers' path. The latter of these, in particular, is often extremely wet underfoot. Allt Garbh river crossing requires a wade - impassable in spate.

Getting there

Start

NC217345 where minor road branches off A894 at Kylestrome.

Public Transport

Kylesku has an infrequent bus link to Inverness - and Durness via Rhiconich.

Start Grid Ref

NC217345

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Services

There are no facilities at Kylestrome, but there is a hotel around 2km away at Kylesku. Rhiconich has a hotel and public toilets; there is a shop a few kilometres further along the route.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 29.75km / 18.5 miles
Time: 9 - 11 hours
Ascent: 752m (Profile)

Summits Climbed

Sub 2000: Ben Dreavie

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

Head east from the A894 at Kylestrome along the minor road, passing the public car park and continuing along the private road past the estate buildings. When the Lodge house is seen on the right, turn left over a little humped bridge onto a track climbing uphill. Follow the main track as it curves right, then go straight across a larger track. Finally, fork right to begin a long rising traverse across the moorland. There are stunning views looking back over Kylesku and its lochs to the majestic peaks of Quinag.

Stage 2

Keep right at another fork, and continue along the track as it contours round to the south of Ben Strome and then curves to the northeast. At NC264369 it joins a bulldozed hydro track coming up from the Maldie Burn (a possible short cut if Kylestrome was being omitted from the route). Continue along the now wide and flat track to an old shieling at the Bealach nam Fiann. Just past the shieling turn left onto a much fainter, grassy track towards Ben Dreavie. (Those wishing to avoid a later boggy stretch could instead continue down the main track to the A838 near Lochmore Lodge and then follow the road northwest to rejoin the route by Lochstack Lodge).

Stage 3

The grassy track - now little more then a path - makes a winding course up the slopes of Ben Dreavie, passing between several small lochans. The summit - at 501m - ranks as a Sub 2000' Marilyn, having 150 metres of descent on all sides - the only summit crossed by the Cape Wrath Trail. The path ends at the summit, which is marked by two cairns a short distance apart. Continue WNW, gradually descending down undulating, rough moorland which is boggy in places. Careful navigation is required on this stretch, eventually passing to the south of a larger lochan.

Stage 4

Continue WNW until the old path across the moors shown on Ordnance Survey maps is reached. This takes the form of a grassy, somewhat boggy old track/path. Turn right along it, soon passing through a gate in a deer fence. Beyond this the path seems to disappear into Loch na h-Ath - continue round the shores to the right before climbing up to another gate in a deer fence where the path resumes once more, now drier underfoot. When the route forks, take the left branch.

Stage 5

The path improves further as it climbs across the western side of the lower slopes of Ben Stack - though this steep peak goes out of view due to the steep ground directly above the route. It's place in the view is soon taken by dramatic Arkle, seen ahead. Eventually the track descends in zig-zags to reach the lonely A838 road, where there are no facilities. Turn right along the tarmac.

Stage 6

After a short distance turn left onto the approach drive for Stack Lodge, crossing a bridge over the River Laxford. Continue to a t-junction, then turn right onto a track - an excellent old stalkers' path - that heads briefly east then northeast, passing a corner of Loch a' Cham Alltain to reach the foot of Arkle. The path then abruptly changes direction to the NNW.

Stage 7

Follow it for another 2km until a good point to strike off across the pathless moorland to Loch a' Garbh-bhaid Mòr . This section is very rough and boggy, requiring careful navigation. The going remains slow and somewhat tedious as slopes above the east side of the loch are traversed; eventually there is a faint and intermittent path, though it remains just as boggy underfoot. Continue NNW from the end of the loch, reaching the shores of Loch a'Gharbh-bhaid Beag.

Stage 8

Soon the Garbh Allt is reached. This wide river can be a major obstacle; even in dry conditions it requires a fair wade to cross, whilst in spate it would be completely impassable and a dangerous trap (retracing steps to the SE end of the loch, crossing the feeder and then continuing on the west side being the only possible alternative).

Stage 9

Continuing by the east side of the loch, a boathouse is reached - its roof having been blown off. The path now becomes clearer for the final stretch to Rhiconich, eventually emerging on the old road. Turn right along this to reach the hotel, which is the only facility here (apart from public toilets just beyond!). Other options include bed and breakfast and another hotel further along the route in Kinlochbervie.

Next stage: Rhiconich to Sandwood Bay.

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