This varied excursion is a rough walk around Melness which comprises a series of crofting townships including Talmine. The route follows coastal cliffs, a tiny bay, a superb and little visited sandy beach and a moorland crossing with excellent views.
Rough and pathless coastal section, then minor road and finally path and often wet track over the moors.
None to start.
Talmine pier, Melness.
There is space to park at Talmine Pier, a beautiful spot at the far end of Talmine Beach with views out towards the Rabbit Islands in Tongue Bay. On the day after the Battle of Culloden a ship carrying gold for the Jacobite cause was wrecked here following a chase by a naval frigate, itself wrecked across the Kyle of Tongue. 120 French soldiers were then pursued across the moors before being overtaken at Lochan Hakon. A signpost marked 'Port Vasgo - 2 miles' (it's actually less than that) indicates the start of the walk, initially following the grassy track that leads north along the coast.
As the grassy track ends continue on a faint path above the coastal rocks. The path peters out at times and it is necessary to cut left at one point slightly to cross a stream flowing out to sea. On two occasions when the path forks it is easiest to take the left branch to avoid traversing around the side of grassy mounds which project out into the sea. Beyond the Rabbit Islands is Eilean nan Ron - the island of seals. Near Eilein a'Chaoil the path gives out completely; go straight ahead up over the grassy headland before an old well-built stone ramp slopes down to the tiny bay at Port Vasgo.
Port Vasgo appears to consist of just two ruined houses at first but as you reach it bear left onto the end of a minor road and follow it uphill past the more modern cottages. Ignore the turning on the right for Midfield and instead continue, passing Loch Vasgo, to a t-junction beyond. A left turn here would lead quickly back to Talmine, but to continue the walk go right instead. The road passes the houses of Strathan before giving views down to the spectacular sands of Achininver beach. The beach can be accessed by a detour along a signed path on the right.
The road bends left inland and eventually crosses the Strath Melness burn; turn left on the far side - signed West Strathan. Follow the road up Strath Melness; it briefly dog-legs to the right at one point. At the end of the tarred road there is a wooden footpath sign reading 'Talmine 2 miles'. Turn left as indicated through the wooden gate and follow the path, keeping the small burn on your right and not crossing it. The aim is to reach a big footbridge over the Strath Melness burn ahead. Cross this and follow a clear path (boggy at first) which climbs diagonally to the right up the moorland, with good views back.
The path passes a stone seat as it begins to level off and cross the top of the moors. It becomes a track - and briefly boggy again - but there are superb views of Ben Loyal as compensation. Ignore side tracks on the left and right and continue, beginning the descent with the Kyle of Tongue and its islands laid out ahead. When the track reaches the tarmac road turn left, overlooking Talmine Bay, and then fork right at the next junction to head back down to the pier.
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