This circuit of the low lying westermost peninsula of Coigach gives rough going. Good coastal scenery and superb sea and mountain views are the reward.
Mostly pathless. Going is fair with some bogs to Rubha Coigich; return route is rough and boggy. Minor road to finish.
Very limited request bus service from Ullapool (Highland Scotbus 811) .
Reiff.
There was room to park on the right just before the bridge at the very end of the road in Reiff for several vehicles but it has been partly blocked with old machinery - there is still space for a couple of cars. Alternatively you could begin from the Achnahaird Bay car park and do the road-walking section first - but that car park too is often full in summer. Starting from the Reiff road end, back-track along the road past the bungalow before turning left along a lane between a garage and another bungalow. Before the track reaches the last stone house leave it, forking left on sheep tracks that descend to and keep alongside the tidal Loch of Reiff.
The path soon fades into sheep tracks; keep on in the same direction to reach the southern edge of Camas Eilean Ghlais - the Bay of the Grey island. Pass around to the right of a rocky boss to reach a pebbly cove in the centre of the bay - there is a small sandy beach if the tide is out. From the beach, head diagonally inland to pass to the left of a solitary former stone house, now maintained and used as a store.
From here cross the stream on a 'causeway' of stones and follow a faint path uphill to the northwest; there are great views back across the bay. The path cuts across the corner to come close to the coast a short distance further on. Pass a dramatic stony geo (inlet).
The route now continues across above the coast - pathless but easy enough - reaching and crossing the Allt nan Clar-Lochan - there are plenty of stepping stones. Beyond it a sheep path continues across a grassy section to reach Rubha Min. From here the route leads around the southern edge of the rocky Faochag Bay. The back of the bay involves crossing an area of peat hags before the coast swings round to continue north. The route crosses the remains of two dry stone walls sloping down to the bay and then ascends across easy-angled sandstone slabs.
The furthest point of Rubha Coigich is reached not far beyond. The headland is much better defined than the OS map would suggest - a large area of flat rocks which ends abruptly in a sudden plunge to the sea. The views are fantastic on a clear day, with the Isle of Lewis far across the sea to the left and the lighthouse near the Point of Stoer visible directly ahead. To the right are the mountains of Assynt and Coigach. If you've found the walk tough going so far, you should consider returning the way you came as the continuation down the other side of the peninsula is rougher and boggier. If continuing, follow a sheep path at first, with Suilven's distinctive dome seen across the sea.
There are several geos (rocky inlets) on the next section and rather than sticking very closely to the cliff edge and having to divert inland around them, it is quicker to try to go directly from the head of one geo to the next. This whole stretch is pathless and heavy going, but the cliff scenery around the geos, the sea birds and the view of the mountains ahead are compensation for the terrain. Geodha na Ploytach Beag has a curious arch in its furthest cliff, situated well above the level of the sea; round this and the next geo before the cliffs eat into a hill ahead, making it necessary to ascend some distance to keep above the cliffs. Beyond this section don't descend but instead contour on sheep paths and then gain a little more height to pass above another section of cliff, hidden at first, that reaches higher up the hill.
Now you can descend once more. An unexpected group of houses comes into view over to the right - Camascoille. Although these are maintained, there is suprisingly no decent path to them. Pass to the left of them and aim for the small hill; there is a fine view from the top to Cul Mòr and Stac Pollaidh. In the dip beyond the hill the ground becomes really wet. Aim just left of Cnoc Mòr to pass above another section of higher cliffs; the path along the coast now begins to become clearer.
Continue round the coast to reach the car park at Achnahaird Bay. The route turns right along the tarmac road here, but before doing so you could make a detour the marked path opposite to visit the wonderful Achnahaird Beach, a fine stretch of sand with a dramatic background of the Coigach mountains. Return to the minor road and follow it to the houses and a 't' junction. Turn right here and follow the minor road across a barren stretch of moor.
Eventually the road climbs over a low pass and then begins to descend with wonderful views; at a bench a path off to the right detours to a viewpoint cairn with an even better outlook over the beaches of Isle Ristol and the scattered Summer Isles to the mountains of Wester Ross beyond. Continue down the road to another t junction; turn right here and follow the road for another couple of kilometres back to Reiff and the start.
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