Lairig an Laoigh

Summary

The Lairig an Laoigh, like the Lairig Ghru, links Speyside with Deeside, but this more easterly pass is far less known than its higher neighbour. The mountain scenery is perhaps slightly less dramatic but it provides a fine through-walk with pinewoods, bleak moorlands, river crossings. The two routes can be combined, with a wild-camp or stay in a bothy, to make a magnificent circuit.

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Please read the WARNING below before setting out on this route.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Fairly good path throughout. There are however some tricky river crossings (impassable in spate) and the route is very remote and far from help.

Getting there

Start

Allt Mòr car park, near Glenmore.

Public Transport

Bus to Glenmore from Aviemore.

Start Grid Ref

NH983088

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 30.5km / 19 miles
Time: 8 - 10 hours
Ascent: 720m (Profile)

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Walk Description

User reports (3)

WARNING

This route is open but only starting from Glenmore via the Logging Way, joining the route described just beyond Glenmore Lodge. The start point and trail from the Allt Mor car park are closed as the clearup continues from the wildfire.

The information shown above is the latest we have. If you have an update then please email us.

Stage 1

The walk begins from the Allt Mòr car park (charge) which is signed on the left side of the road to the Cairngorm ski area, around 1km beyond the turning for Glenmore Lodge (parking at the lodge has become so congested as to cause problems with access for rescue teams and others). The Allt Mòr car park is set out amidst some magnificent Scots pines. From the far end of the car park take the clear path that starts between two boulders, by an information board and purple waymarker post. Cross a footbridge over the Allt Mòr, and keep ahead as a path joins in from the right. Ignore more turnings off to both left and right and cross another bridge. Eventually a ford is reached - if needed there is a footbridge accessed a short distance upstream.

Stage 2

Back on the main path, a t-junction is soon reached with the track from Glenmore Lodge. Turn right here, continuing to eventually reach the open ground in the floor of the glen that leads up to the Ryvoan Pass. After about two kilometres, the track comes close to Lochan Uaine, a picturesque sheet of turquoise-green water fringed by Scots Pine trees; it is worth descending the steps on the right to visit the loch shore.

Stage 3

Continue along the track through the Ryvoan Pass. At a fork, take the right branch - signed for Braemar. The route now becomes a little stonier and the landscape more open, with sweeping views over the uppermost reaches of Abernethy Forest to the left. After a couple of kilometres the route reaches a footbridge over the River Nethy; cross this and continue on the well-constructed path that climbs the moorland ahead. There are increasingly extensive views over Abernethy Forest and lower Speyside. The constructed section of path ends but the route beyond is just as clear on the ground; when it forks, keep left (the right hand path is bound for Bynack More).

Stage 4

The Lairig soon reaches its highest point (though there are lots more climbs to come!) before descending gently across bleak terrain to cross the Uisge Dubh Poll a' Choin. Creag Mhòr can now be seen ahead - a rather insignificant piece of moorland capped with a granite tor but dwarfed by the giant Beinn a'Bhuird behind it. Although the route is clear in good weather, any navigational errors in this area could become serious if one is drawn into the drainage system of the Water of Caiplich - which leads into as empty, remote and featureless an area as any in Scotland. The path rises again before descending to cross Glasath in the glen below. The great tors visible high on right are the Barns of Bynack, just below the summit of Bynack More.

Stage 5

There is a slight rise before the path passes Lochan a'Bhainne and then descends slowly to reach the refuge at the Fords of Avon. The wooden hut is encased within stonework to secure it against the fierce winter storms; it is dark and cramped inside and best left for emergencies. The route now crosses the Avon, which is already a substantial river. Even in a dry spell this is likely to require a wade; in times of spate it is quite impassable. Just beyond there is a second crossing of a tributary before the path climbs once more to another high point. This pass is the Lairig an Laoigh itself, though the route here is not quite so high as the crossing of the shoulder of Bynack More.

Stage 6

With a magnificent view ahead, the path now descends across the slopes on the east side of Glen Derry. The fast-flowing Glas Allt Mòr provides yet another potentially problematic crossing before the path continues along the floor of the glen.

Stage 7

As the beautiful Derry pinewoods are reached, keep to the east side of the burn where a lovely path winds through the trees, climbing above the river and giving some superb views. Eventually bear left onto a track past the derelict Derry Lodge.

Stage 8

It soon leaves the trees behind to pass through an emptier section of Glen Lui, passing the site of some former townships. Turn right at a junction to cross a bridge over the Luibeg. After another 1.5km a path on the right heads through to the Linn of Dee car park and the end of the walk. Of course, you could always walk back to Speyside using the Lairig Ghru tomorrow!

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